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CarPlay on 124 Spider display

Android Auto screens on 124 Spider display
In conjunction with previous articles, where Fiat 124 Spider and Abarth 124 Spider owners are installing the CarPlay retrofit hub kit with Mazda’s version 70 firmware, which is needed to make it all work, since it seems that Fiat has not announced any plans to release version 70 firmware of their own, this article is hopefully the last regarding the transformation of the Mazda firmware into “Fiat-ized” firmware.
I had another idea, to resolve the last of the desired changes, and it too, turned out to be a winner! Since the vehicle name “Mazda” seems to be called out in xml control files within the jci/settings/configurations folder, by replacing the following 4 files…
✅ with our Fiat xml files, all of the vehicle naming for:
- Bluetooth pairing
- Texting reply footers
- Aha/Pandora/Stitcher
- and Bluetooth Emergency 911 calls
, will now read “124 Spider” once again.
✅ 68wooley has finished putting together a Universal Mazda-to-Fiat Version 70 AIO Tweak combining:
- my file substitutions mentioned above
- his Fiat & Abarth CarPlay icons (great job!!)
- my Fiat/Abarth boot animations
- the restoration of the OEM Navigation function with the Fiat SD card, which I also pioneered
, and published it today, available here.
This is what the upgraded USB hub module looks like that will allow CarPlay to function (note the iPod icon adjacent to the upper USB 3.1 full-duplex port capable of charging closer to 2 amps, vs. the other USB 2.0 half-duplex port below it, that only puts out 500 mA, same as the pair of USB ports in the original hub) ⇓
The Universal Version 70 Fiat AIO tweak will not function with versions 70.00.335 and 70.00.352, as code was introduced ⇓
14 = Execute, "passwdupdate", "execute.ini", 12 19 = Execute, "neutralizeid7", "execute.ini", 4 20 = Execute, "systemupdateid", "execute.ini", 2
that although leaves the touchscreen tweak intact (if installed), is intended to:
- “neutralize” the id7 tweak, thereby disabling the ability to tweak
- remove the credentials needed to gain access via the serial method, thereby preventing you from reinstalling id7
For now, be sure to only use firmware 70.00.100 (link below has been fixed), should you wish to proceed with this tweak.
[ADDED 4/2/2021]
The only way to be able to proceed with these tweaks, should you find yourself at a firmware version that procludes tweaking via USB, is to install 70.00.100 with a laptop connected to the CMU via the serial input, as shown in https://mazdatweaks.com/id7/ ⇓

photo courtesy of james.today
[ADDED 5/18/2021]
Rather than trying to find Sumitomo pins, it might be easier to solder wires directly, as shown here (just leave the wires in place afterwards). ⇓
[ADDED 4/11/2021]
If you choose to proceed with a version higher than 70.00.100, using the aforementioned serial method, see
https://www.124spider.org/threads/mazdatofiat70aio-and-cmu-firmware-70-00-335c-or-70-00-352b-success.38004/ for 124geek’s modification suggestions for allowing the Version 70 Fiat AIO Tweak to install afterwards:
· Start with a tweaks USB drive generated with MZD-AIO v2.8.6. Load a tweak into your CMU to make sure it works! · Replace the config folder on the AIO USB with the config folder from MazdaToFiatV70AIO · Replace tweaks.sh on the AIO USB with tweaks.sh from MazdaToFiatV70AIO · Edit tweaks.sh on the AIO USB, by changing variables listed below (not sure if necessary, but didn't try without): # AIO Variables AIO_VER=2.8.6 AIO_DATE=2020.04.04 # Android Auto Headunit App Version AA_VER=1.13 # Speedometer Version SPD_VER=6.1 # AIO Tweaks App Version AIO_TWKS_VER=1.0 In compatibility_check() change VER_EXT comparison at line 161 from 100 to [anything less than] 360: 159: elif [ $_VER -eq 70 ] 160: then 161: if [ $_VER_EXT -le 360 ] · Save tweaks.sh, then safely eject the USB drive from your computer. Follow Ameridan's instructions to de-Mazda your CMU.
♦♦♦
Some additional notes
✅ Also, be aware that Google Maps will use the car’s GPS data, whereas Waze will use the phone’s, so keep that in mind when stowing the phone under your seat 😉
✅ If you miss being able to zoom with your Commander knob in Google Maps, download an older version (like 10.11.2) of Maps, until they fix that feature again.
✅ The Exit icon while in Android Auto mode still displays the Mazda logo, since that hasn’t been figured out yet.
✅ If your 2017/2018 124 Spider is switching countries (U.S. to Europe for example), the tuner will not function as expected, but you needn’t change any hardware. By following the entire firmware upgrade process described in this article, and choosing the appropriate regional version of 70.00.100 firmware, your CMU will be reprogrammed with the appropriate FM tuning, DAB or HD, etc.
✅ DO NOT install the Android Auto tweak once you are at version 70, as it will definitely corrupt the official AA install.
✅ Be forewarned that if you want wireless CarPlay, you’ll need firmware version at (or above) 74.00.200 – which means you will not be able to tweak via USB (including this Universal Version 70 Fiat AIO Tweak). You will also need the wireless version (Ver. P3) of USB hub ET-1594, as offered here.
✅ Apparently, the XM app has been updated in version 70+ firmware, and since album artwork should now appear in XM mode for many of the channels, the larger artwork tweak should function. Also, the HD Radio Traffic Map App is added, but it isn’t tied into the Navigation.
Start-to-Finish Vehicle Installation Instructions
Presenting 68wooley’s very detailed Step-by-Step instructions for upgrading version 56 firmware to version 70 (with updates by ameridan as I become aware of them):
- as preparation for a (Mazda) retrofit USB hub that includes a fast-charging USB 3.0 port, compatible with factory-integrated CarPlay and Android Auto
- and then “Fiat-izing” the installation so that Fiat (or Abarth) images replace Mazda’s boot and exit animations, Fiat (or Abarth) icons replace CarPlay’s Mazda icon and the Fiat SD Navigation card again functions.
Thank you so much for allowing me to include this valuable resource!
Fiat 124 Spider 2017+ Apple CarPlay / Android Auto Upgrade
Article and photos submitted by: 68wooley [edited by ameridan]
Part 1 – Firmware Update

photo courtesy of Victor Do
This is part one of a guide covering the steps required to install the ‘official’ Mazda upgrade to the CMU (what we used to call ‘the stereo’) to add Apple CarPlay and Android Auto functionality in your 2017+ FIAT or Abarth 124 Spider. This part of the guide covers updating the firmware in the CMU and must be carried out prior to steps described in part two. The version 70 firmware will run on your existing hardware quite happily so you can, for example, carry out the firmware update one weekend and complete the hardware install the following weekend.
A couple of caveats you should be aware of if you are contemplating this upgrade:
1. This update is only available if you have the 7” display. The 3” displays in some Classicas are not compatible.
2. FCA are being their usual useless selves and have not issued a FIAT / Abarth specific firmware version for this upgrade. This means we need to use a Mazda firmware for now. This has two consequences:
a. The startup and splash-screens and various other parts of the interface will reference Mazda rather than FIAT / Abarth (note the ‘Mazda’ icon in the screenshot above for example). Thankfully, this can mostly be corrected via Ameridan’s fantastic tweaks – we’ll cover this later.
b. The in-built navigation will stop working. The system does a lookup of your vehicle’s VIN as part of its security checks. Mazda firmware expects to see a Mazda VIN, FIAT firmware, a FIAT VIN. Because our cars present a FIAT VIN to Mazda firmware after the upgrade, the in-built NAV no longer works. Again, thanks to Ameridan, there is a workaround for this that we’ll cover, but you’ll also have access to Apple and Google maps, Waze etc after the upgrade so you may not care.
3. If you are taking your car in for service, insist that the dealership NOT attempt to update your CMU firmware – nothing good will come of it, and it will break your ability to install tweaks.
4. After the firmware update, the Bluetooth ID for the car changes to “Mazda”. I’ll see if we can fix that somehow, but for now, just be aware you will need to re-pair your phone with the car following the update.
5. Just to reiterate, you will not see CarPlay or the official Android Auto options by simply installing this firmware. Once the firmware recognizes the subsequent installation of the upgraded hub, that is when you will be presented with those options (decide beforehand which one you will be selecting, as the system might hiccup if you change your mind).
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
To update the firmware, you will need:
· V70.00.100, which is Mazda’s certified upgrade.
· A blank FAT32 formatted USB stick – 8 to 16GB is recommended and please use a quality name-brand stick rather than the cheapest poc you can find. If the stick fails on you during the firmware flash, you could end up with a non-functional CMU.
· Ameridan’s id7 Tweak Package.
· Ameridan’s Abarth or Fiat Version 70 Boot Package and Version 70 NNG Fix Package OR, better yet 68wooley’s MazdaToFiatV70AIO package.
The download locations for the firmware files will be covered later.
USEFUL LINKS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The information in this how-to has been pulled from a number
of sources and I hereby nod my hat to:
Ameridan and his fantastic blog and work on the All-In-Tweaks at https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com/blog
This is well worth checking out even if you never have any intention of doing the CarPlay / Android Auto update.
ASH8 for his how-to thread at https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2018-mazda-3-skyactiv-audio-electronics/230249-genuine-carplay-android-auto-all-here-now.html
I was inspired by rsmagee and TheSalamander – Fiat 124 CarPlay pioneers – in this thread: https://www.124spider.org/forum/26-electronics-audio-lighting/30666-carplay-up-running.html
The original Mazda All-In-One tweaks are at https://mazdatweaks.com/
ATTENTION – IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE FIRMWARE UPGRADE DESCRIBED HERE IS CARRIED OUT BEFORE THE INSTALLATION OF ANY OF THE NEW HARDWARE DESCRIBED IN PART 2.
In order for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto to be available, we have to upgrade our CMU’s to run the Mazda version 70 firmware (firmware is simply the software that controls the unit). Our Fiats and Abarths shipped with a Fiat / Abarth branded derivative of either version 56 (2017 and early 2018 cars) or version 59 (later 2018 and 2019 cars).
The version 56 firmware allowed tweaking of certain features via software developed by a group of enthusiasts – including things like enabling the touchscreen while the car is moving, changing background images and swapping FIAT logos for the Abarth Scorpion. Mazda, and presumably FIAT’s, lawyers got nervous about this as they considered some of tweaks to be bypassing safety features (obviously none of them had ever tried to use the command wheel to enter an address). As a result, starting with version 59 of the firmware Mazda blocked the ability to apply tweaks. FIAT started shipping 124’s with their derivative of version 59 firmware (59.00.524) mid-way through the 2018 model run, and subsequently 59.00.562.
Not to be beaten, the very clever developer id7, developed a patch (known as ID7) that allows the tweaks to continue to be installed on version 59 and later firmware, but only if the patch is installed BEFORE upgrading to version 59 firmware or later. As we’ll be upgrading to version 70 firmware, we need to install the patch before upgrading to retain the ability to apply tweaks. It is also this patch that will allow us to restore the built-in navigation function following the upgrade. As my car is a 2017 and shipped with the version 56 firmware, I was able to install the patch using the method described below. If you have a 2018 or newer vehicle with version 59.00.524 or 59.00.562 firmware already installed (or your dealer updated you to it during a service), there are two alternative methods of installing the patch:
- a very technician-type “Serial” method described at https://mazdatweaks.com/serial/ which is quite involved
or, you can downgrade your firmware to Mazda 59.00.502, which will then allow you to install id7 via USB tweak[EDIT 9/14/2020] >> this was based on bad info perhaps, because now I found this from Tristan-cx5:
You can only downgrade as far as 59.00.502 and from that version onwards, you have to do the serial access (www.mazdatweaks.com/serial) to install AIO tweaks via USB.
I haven’t tried either process, and the instructions below assume you are starting from version 56 firmware. You can check your firmware version on the CMU by going to:
HOME -> SETTINGS -> SYSTEM -> ABOUT -> VERSION INFORMATION
STEP 1 – DOWNLOAD REQUIRED FILES
We’ll start by downloading the required firmware files and Ameridan’s three tweak packages.
1. [Updated 7/19/2021, since the Hidrive source disappeared]
Find the 70.00.100 files @ https://mega.nz/folder/YWx3lCIT#6179hwSHeAaPeLF25wvlYQ and you DO NOT want to use the most recent versions, like 70.00.335, 70.00.352, or 74.00.230!
2. Download: 2018 FIRMWARE CMU UPDATE PROCEDURE-WORLDWIDE.pdf (or get it here). This document is to serve as a guide, since it refers to version 59.00.502, rather than the version 70.00.100 that you will be using.
Then go to the folder relevant to your region of the world; NA N for North America, EU N for Europe, 4A N for Oceana. The following steps assume you’ve gone to the NA N folder – just swap in the corresponding files for other regions as appropriate.
3. Download the two version 70 files and the Mazda instructions PDF to your computer:
a. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_failsafe.up (Don’t select 70.00.335 or 70.00.352!)
b. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_reinstall.up (Don’t select 70.00.335 or 70.00.352!)
Download the files one at a time rather than use the ‘download all files’ options as the folder method compresses everything into a zip file which can corrupt the update (‘up’) files.
NOTE: If you wish to take the extra steps of testing the .up files prior to installation, the procedure for verifying the MD5 Checksum Hash, is called out in this pdf file.
NOTE: If you are OK with Mazda branded splash screens and backgrounds and have no desire to install any of the tweaks described on Ameridan’s blog or restoring the built in Navigation, you can skip ahead to “STEP 4 – UN-PAIR ALL PHONES AND PREP FOR FIRMWARE UPGRADE”.
Otherwise, proceed…
4. Download Ameridan’s ID7 Tweak Package and the MazdaToFiatV70AIO zip file from the following URLs respectively:
a. http://www.mediafire.com/file/0r6pzhongok9h0u/autorun_copy_to_usb.zip
b. http://www.mediafire.com/file/zj0cp690a7x5rq1/MazdaToFiatV70AIO.zip/file
At each URL, click the large light-green ‘download’ button, and no others (color may change though):
Unzip the contents of the zip files to folders on your computer. I put them in folders called Ameridan Tweaks/autorun_copy_to_usb_id7 and Ameridan Tweaks/MazdaToFiatV70AIO respectively:
STEP 2 – FORMAT YOUR USB DRIVE
1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and back up any files on it you want to keep
for later – we are about to wipe it so you will lose any existing files you don’t back up.
2. Format your USB stick as FAT32 – to do this, right click on the drive in Windows Explorer and select “Format”:
3. In the resulting screen, make sure the file system is set to FAT32 and enter a volume label (this is the label used to describe the drive in File Explorer). I set my volume label to “FIAT”. Click OK to begin the format and click OK on the warnings about losing any existing data on the drive.
STEP 3 – INSTALL ID7 PATCH
We’ll next install the ID7 patch on your CMU. This patch will allow us to replace much of the Mazda branding in the version 70 firmware and restore the built-in Nav function after we complete the firmware upgrade. If your car is currently on a version 59 firmware, you will need to follow the process described at https://mazdatweaks.com/serial/ The steps below assume you are on a version 56 firmware.
1. Copy the contents of the unzipped ID7 package (in forder “autorun_copy_to_usb_id7” on my computer) to your USB drive.
2. Safely eject your USB stick. We’re now ready to go to your car.
3. Turn off Bluetooth on any phones you have paired with your car.
4. Go to your car and unplug any connected USB cables and remove your navigation SD
card.
5. Plug in your USB stick.
6. Without touching any of the pedals, hit the start button once to put the car in to
accessory mode and turn the CMU on.
7. Switch audio source to FM.
8. After a few minutes a screen will pop up asking if you want to select an installation
method. Use the touchscreen to click on Install.
9. You’ll then see a screen asking you to confirm you want to run the update. Click
Update.
10. After a minute or two, you’ll get a message saying the update is complete and asking if you want to reboot. Click reboot. When the screen goes blank, remove your USB stick.
The ID7 patch is now installed. Go back to your computer.
STEP 4 – UN-PAIR ALL PHONES AND PREP FOR FIRMWARE UPGRADE
1. Un-pair all of the phones that you’ve linked to your car, in both your phone’s bluetooth menu AND THE CAR’S BLUETOOTH MENU before doing the update. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DO IT AFTERWARDS, and I’m unsure if a phone paired to ‘Mazda’ will still work once you switch it to ‘124 Spider’.
2. Also, it is recommended that large apps, like Speedometer, AA and CASDK, be uninstalled, and avoid reinstalling them until after you have installed the Mazda-to-Fiat version 70 tweaks, to insure sufficient memory is available for that tweak, especially if you are restoring the Navigation function.
STEP 5 – INSTALLING THE MAZDA VERSION 70 FIRMWARE
For the install of the version 70 firmware files, we’ll be following the official Mazda instructions. The process is very similar to the ID7 patch install we just completed. They are very clear with good screenshots so I’m not going to try and recreate them.
1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and delete all existing files from it.
2. Copy the two update files to your USB drive:
a. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_failsafe.up
b. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_reinstall.up
3. Print off the Mazda instructions (2018 FIRMWARE CMU UPDATE PROCEDURE-WORLDWIDE.pdf). Read and familiarize yourself with them. There are thirty steps that must be followed in order.
4. Carry out the updates according to the Mazda instructions.
You’ll be installing the two files one after the other – the failsafe file followed by the main update file. The overall process will take about an hour – make sure you have enough time to complete it. Pay attention to the note about depressing the brake or clutch every 20 minutes during the install to prevent the CMU shutting down in the middle of the update.
Once the firmware upgrade is complete, we’ve done everything needed to support CarPlay and Android Auto.
STEP 6 – REPLACE ALL MAZDA STARTUP AND SHUTDOWN ANIMATIONS, CARPLAY ICONS AND BLUETOOTH PAIRING NAMING WITH FIAT / ABARTH EQUIVALENTS

photo courtesy of Victor Do
These last steps are optional, and only needed if you want to replace the Mazda startup and shutdown animations with Fiat or Abarth equivalents or if you want to restore the built in (Fiat) Navigation functionality.
To replace the Mazda startup / shutdown animations that ship with version 70 firmware with Fiat or Abarth equivalents, carry out the following steps:
1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and delete all the files on it.
2. Copy the contents of the unzipped folder (“Ameridan Tweaks/MazdaToFiatV70AIO” on my computer) to your USB Drive.
3. Safely eject your USB stick. We’re now ready to go back to your car.
4. The process of replacing the startup / shutdown animations on your car is the same as installing the ID7 package. Start by disabling Bluetooth on all phones paired with your car.
5. Go to your car and unplug any connected USB cables and remove your navigation SD card.
6. Plug in your USB stick.
7. Without touching any of the pedals, hit the start button once to put the car in to
accessory mode and turn the CMU on.
8. Switch audio source to FM.
9. After a few minutes a screen will pop up asking you to confirm the installation.
Click ‘YES’, and then you will be prompted with a series of questions asking what changes you wish to make:
- The first will ask if you want to use Fiat or Abarth logos and branding. Click on FIAT or ABARTH according to your choice – this will determine whether the later steps install Fiat or Abarth startup and shutdown animations and whether the Mazda CarPlay icon gets replaced with a Fiat or Abarth icon.
- Next, you will be asked if you want to replace the Mazda startup and shutdown animations. If you answer ‘YES’, the animations will be updated – this will take a moment to complete. If you answer ‘NO’, the system will jump to the next tweak. Note that even after installing this change, you may still see a Mazda screen briefly from time to time – particularly if you do a hard reboot of the system.
- Next you will be asked if you wish to replace the word ‘Mazda’ with ‘124 Spider’, ‘Abarth’, or ‘Fiat’ as appropriate throughout the system interface. If you answer ‘YES’, the system interface will be updated – this will take a moment to complete, but there still remains a ‘Mazda’ Bluetooth pairing, that hasn’t been figured out yet.
Note this should work for systems using UK, Australian and North American English, Italian, German, French (including Canadian French), Spanish and Dutch.
If you answer ‘NO’, the system will jump to the next tweak. - Next you will be asked if you want to replace the Mazda Icon in Apple CarPlay. This should result in an Abarth Scorpion or Fiat logo icon labelled ‘124 Spider’ being used instead of the Mazda icon in the CarPlay homescreen. If you answer ‘YES’, the icon will be updated – this will take a moment to complete. If you answer ‘NO’, the system will jump to the next tweak. Note that even after applying this change, the car will still be listed as ‘Mazda’ in your iPhone’s CarPlay settings.
- Next you will be asked if you wish to restore the OEM navigation functionality. If you answer ‘YES’, the navigation function will be restored – this will take several minutes to complete. During this process, depress and release the clutch or brake pedal to prevent the CMU being put in to sleep mode. If you answer ‘NO’, the system will jump to the next tweak.
- Next you will be asked if you want to change the vehicle’s Bluetooth ID from ‘Mazda’ to ‘124 Spider’. This is the name you will see when pairing your phone with the car. If you answer ‘YES’, the Bluetooth ID will be updated – this will take a moment to complete. If you answer ‘NO’, the system will jump to the next tweak.
- The final tweak you will be asked about makes a copy of your entire CMU system on your USB stick. In most cases, this tweak is unnecessary and should be skipped, but if you are trying to debug an issue or are simple curious, this could prove helpful. If you answer ‘YES’, the backup will be created – this will take up to 30 minutes to complete. During this process, depress and release the clutch or brake pedal every 10 minutes to prevent the CMU going into sleep mode. The backup will be written to config/full-backup on your USB drive. If you answer ‘NO’, the tweak installations will be complete.
10. A reboot message should appear. When the screen goes blank, remove your USB drive.
11. After rebooting, all your selected changes should be available. Note that under certain circumstances the Mazda logo may still briefly appear.
- Remember to re-pair your phone with the car.
12. If your Gracenote had already been updated to version 9, you will have to upgrade it once again, as version 8 is installed as part of the Version 70 upgrade. See Ameridan’s article for the link and procedure at:
https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com/2018/10/16/gracenote-music-database-version-9-update/
13. Put your navigation SD card back in the slot and start navigation. You should see maps launch as normal rather than the compass screen.
This is the end of the steps needed to upgrade the firmware. We can now move on to replacing the USB hub and cables, as described in part two of this guide.
14. If you are going to add the Speedometer tweak (use MZD-AIO 2.8.6+ , ensuring that the “Hide in Reverse” is enabled in StatusBar Speedometer Options), TheAmazingDave and 124Geek have modified the setInterval (function) code so that the status bar speedo works properly while in:
- reverse
- the Speedometer app screen
- the Fuel Usage app
- and when in either CarPlay or Android Auto mode.
Edit speedometer-startup.js with a text editor (not Office Word) in folder: _copy_to_usb\config\speedometer\jci\gui\apps\_speedometer\js
after compiling by choosing the appropriate block of code and pasting it in the setInterval (function) section.
JavaScript for Android Auto:
setInterval(function() {
if (framework.getCurrentApp() === 'backupparking' || framework.getCurrentApp() === 'androidauto') {
$('#SbSpeedo, #Sbfuel-bar-wrapper').addClass('parking');
$('#SbSpeedo .SbVal1, #SbSpeedo .SbVal2').fadeIn();
} else if (framework.getCurrentApp() === 'speedometer') {
$('#SbSpeedo, #Sbfuel-bar-wrapper').addClass('parking');
$('#SbSpeedo .SbVal1, #SbSpeedo .SbVal2').fadeIn();
} else if($('#SbSpeedo').hasClass('parking')) {
$('#SbSpeedo .SbVal2').fadeOut()
$('#SbSpeedo, #Sbfuel-bar-wrapper').removeClass('parking');
}
}, 1000);
JavaScript for CarPlay:
setInterval(function() {
if (framework.getCurrentApp() === 'backupparking' || framework.getCurrentApp() === 'carplay') {
$('#SbSpeedo, #Sbfuel-bar-wrapper').addClass('parking');
$('#SbSpeedo .SbVal1, #SbSpeedo .SbVal2').fadeIn();
} else if (framework.getCurrentApp() === 'speedometer') {
$('#SbSpeedo, #Sbfuel-bar-wrapper').addClass('parking');
$('#SbSpeedo .SbVal1, #SbSpeedo .SbVal2').fadeIn();
} else if($('#SbSpeedo').hasClass('parking')) {
$('#SbSpeedo .SbVal2').fadeOut()
$('#SbSpeedo, #Sbfuel-bar-wrapper').removeClass('parking');
}
}, 1000);
Also change this section of tweaks.sh install script, so that the compass will not be 180 degrees out-of-phase, by pasting in this replacement:
# change compass rotating depending on if NAV SD card inserted or not
if [ ! -d /mnt/sd_nav/content/speedcam ]
then
sed -i 's/var noNavSD = false;/var noNavSD = true;/g' /jci/gui/apps/_speedometer/js/speedometer-startup.js
log_message "=== Changed compass rotating, because no NAV SD card is inserted ==="
fi
Save both files.
Copy contents of _copy_to_usb folder to USB drive.
ADDITIONAL TWEAKS
With Version 70 firmware, you are advised to use the Mazda AIO installer, version 2.8.3 or higher, along with the “Apps to Resources” install option, for installing additional tweaks, as it adapts to changes in the Home page that accommodate CarPlay and Android Auto, as well as making better use of the available memory in the CMU by installing to the resources partition, rather than the almost-full root partition.
It seems some tweaks might need to be installed twice, in order to function properly, so keep that in mind if things don’t seem proper.
Part 2 – Hardware Install

photo courtesy of Victor Do
This is part two of a guide covering the steps required to install the ‘official’ Mazda upgrade (at your convenience) to the CMU (what we used to call ‘the stereo’) to add Apple CarPlay and Android Auto functionality in your 2017+ FIAT or Abarth 124 Spider. This part of the guide covers installing necessary replacement hardware in your dashboard.
The first part of this guide covers updating the firmware in your CMU and must be carried out prior to the steps described in this part of the guide.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
For this part of the install, you will need:
- Replacement USB cables: Mazda Part C922-V6-605A
- Replacement USB HUB: Mazda Part TK78-66-9U0C
- Metric socket set with 10mm socket and 200mm / 8” extension.
- Cable ties (approximately 10)
- Scissors
- Flat head and Philips screwdrivers.
- Foam Tape
- Trim removal tools
I ordered the required USB hub and cables (with foam tape) on Amazon at https://amzn.to/2GRquAO – price at time of writing was $163.
The foam tape is used secure the excess USB cable behind the dash and to prevent it rattling, as the same replacement USB cables are used for other Mazda vehicles, all of which are significantly larger than the 124 / MX-5 and need a longer cable run.
Trim removal tools simply make it less likely you’ll damage the bits of trim that need to be removed to access the CMU. I have this kit: https://amzn.to/2V71sBw
You can also use a flat headed screwdriver with some electrical tape over the head (to protect the trim) for anything we’d be using a trim tool for.
USEFUL LINKS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The information in this how-to has been pulled from a number of sources and I hereby nod my hat to:
Ameridan and his fantastic blog and work on the All-In-Tweaks at https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com/blog
This is well worth checking out even if you never have any intention of doing
the CarPlay / Android Auto update.
ASH8 for his original Mazda how-to thread at https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2018-mazda-3-skyactiv-audio-electronics/230249-genuine-carplay-android-auto-all-here-now.html
I was inspired by rsmagee and TheSalamander – Fiat 124
CarPlay pioneers – in this thread: https://www.124spider.org/forum/26-electronics-audio-lighting/30666-carplay-up-running.html
The original Mazda All-In-One tweaks are at https://mazdatweaks.com/
In order to support CarPlay and Android Auto, the USB hub (the little area of the dash where you plug in USB cables and your navigation SD card) needs to be replaced along with the cables connecting the CMU to the USB hub. The replacement hub can be identified by the phone icon next to the top USB ports – you use this port to connect your phone if you want to run CarPlay or Android Auto. That port is also capable of charging your USB device @ 2.1 amps.
The photos below show the replacement parts we will be fitting including the foam pads and cable ties my parts kit included.
There are two USB cables in the kit, one with a gray and blue plug at one end and a brown plug at the other end, and one with a gray and green plug at one end and a black plug at the other end. Make sure you have both cables.
The foam padding comes already separated into 30mm by 100mm sections:
The following diagram shows the routing of the cables we will be installing:
In order to be able to access the back of the CMU and to replace the hub unit, we need to remove a number of pieces of trim. This will seem intimidating at first, but in reality, it’s pretty straight forward. Most pieces simply pull off and clip back on.
A full list of shop manual instructions for each piece of trim to be removed, as well as the Mazda cable installation instructions and videos of an installation can be found at:
https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware/-CarPlay-AndroidAuto%20INSTALL
That link no longer seems to be available, so I’ll post this link to the Miata workshop manual as an alternative, to be used in conjunction with the following list of trim pieces that need to be removed in the following order:
1. Passenger Side Scuff Plate
2. Passenger Side Front Side Trim
3. Shift knob
4. Shift Panel, Console Panel and Upper Panel (these are listed separately in the
official Mazda instructions, but can actually be removed as one piece)
5. Parking brake boot panel
6. Passenger side A-pillar trim
7. Passenger side lower trim
8. Rear console
9. Front console and Front Console Panel – again, these are listed separately in the
Mazda instructions but can be removed as one piece.
10. Center Panel No. 2
11. Meter (Gauge Cluster) Hood
12. Center display (this is the display screen and actual CMU unit).
The following diagram shows the location of each item:
Overall, it took me roughly two and half hours to complete the installation, including stopping to take pictures.
Eddie Clark also posted a video of his CarPlay installation on his YouTube Pistons and Petrol channel:
STEP 1 – TRIM REMOVAL
1. Start by lowering the convertible top and windows. While this isn’t entirely necessary, I find it much easier to work with the interior of the car as exposed as possible.
2. Make sure your car is parked somewhere where you can fully open both doors.
3. Designate a space for your removed trim pieces. I laid out a packing blanket on my garage floor to put the pieces on. You may also want to put a towel or similar down on the floor beside each door to kneel on as you will be working in those areas.
4. Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. Note, the black plastic piece on the terminal is rather fragile – do not strike or pull on it:
5. Move to the passenger side door and remove the scuff plate. This is just attached
with clips. Start at one end, slide your hand underneath, pull up to release the clips at that side and slide your hand forward until all the remaining clips release:
The picture below shows the underside removed piece with the location of the clips:
6. Remove the passenger front side trim. This is the piece in the foot-well shown in the
following picture.
The piece is secured by a pop-clip roughly where the green square is. Use a trim tool or flat headed screwdriver to pop up the center section of the clip and then pull the whole clip out.
Put the clip somewhere safe. Note, the center pin is only loosely attached to the outer section – be careful they don’t become separated and get lost.
Remove the seaming strip – this just pulls off:
You can now remove the trim piece by pulling it backwards towards the rear of
the car. It is secured by a single clip that will just pop out.
7. Remove the shift knob. On the manual cars, it simply unscrews – if you have an
automatic, you’ll need to pop the retaining clip (refer to Ameridan’s automatic shift knob article for a detailed comment regarding expending special attention to the linkage parts within, although it’s possible to do it without removing the shift knob. Just move shifter into drive and you will have space to rotate the center piece 90 degrees. You will have enough space to get the job done).
8. Next, remove the center console. This is listed as three separate pieces in the Mazda
instructions, but it actually comes out as a single piece – this includes the trim surrounding shifter, the rubber cubby space under the AC controls and the piece containing the command knob controls:
The trim is held in by clips that just pop out. Start by lifting the silver bezel of the shifter surround at the rear passenger side. Once the first clip pops, work your way rearward down the passenger side, around the back of the trim, and up the driver’s side until all
the clips release (lift the rear cubby lid to get it out of the way).
Once all the clips are released, gently lift the trim and look underneath – there are two (three, if automatic) cables under the command knob unit that need to be released. DennyA reports that because there are other cables taped to the automatic shift console, it’s much easier to leave the connections in place, slide the trim up over the shifter, and just rest the attached trim on the driver’s-side floor.
If unplugging though, push the retaining clips on the plugs in and slide them out. For some reason, I found it difficult to locate the retaining clip on the larger of the two plugs. The following picture shows where it is:
Once the cables are unplugged, slide the trim up over the shifter and remove from the car.
9. Remove the parking brake boot panel. This is held in by two clips – one at the front
and one at the rear. I used a trim tool to pop the clips out:
Once both clips are released, slide the boot and trim up and over the brake lever to remove:
10. Remove the passenger side A-Panel trim – this is the panel running up the side of the windscreen. To start, use a trim tool or flat headed screwdriver to remove the piece highlighted below:
This piece should pop out by prying it backwards towards the rear of the car. Once it is removed, remove the rest of the A-Pillar trim by starting at the top and pulling towards the center of the car. Work your way down the trim as each clip pops out in turn. Note that there is a tweeter speaker attached to the trim. Rather than try and release the speaker cable (which is a bit tricky), I just laid the disconnected trim on top of the dashboard. The following picture isn’t very clear (lots of reflection from the windscreen), but it’s taken from outside the car and shows the trim lying on the dashboard:
11. Next remove the passenger side lower trim:
This is held in by a single 10mm bolt and a series of clips that just pop out. The bolt is in the passenger foot-well:
Once the bolt is removed, the trim can be removed by starting at the passenger
side and pulling back towards the rear of the car, releasing each clip in turn.
12. Remove the rear center console – this includes the trim surrounding the transmission tunnel and the rear cubby. Start by removing your cup holders if you have them. Next, use a Philips screwdriver to undo the two screws just in front of the shifter:
The panel is now held in by pop out clips. Slide your hands under each side of
the front of the panel and lift it upwards to release the clips. Slide your
hands backwards down each side of the panel popping each clip out in turn until
panel is released:
Remove the panel from the car.
13. Remove the front console and front console panel. The Mazda instructions described this as a two-step process, but I found both pieces came out as a single unit. This is
the existing USB hub, the panel with the seatbelt and airbag warning lights,
the seat heater buttons and the surrounding trim:
Put one hand on either side of the trim surround and pull back – the entire unit should release as one:
Note that there are three cables on the back of the unit that need to be released. Push down on the locking tab of each and slide it out.
In the picture above, the foam wrapped cable with the small black plug will be
replaced with our two new cables. The cables with the larger black and white
plugs will be reused. Take note of which cable is which before moving on. We’ll
be replacing the USB hub in the removed unit shortly so keep it handy.
14. Remove ‘Center Panel No. 2’. This is the panel with the hazard warning lights switch and central air vent in it. It’s simply held on with pop out clips. I found it easiest to start
at the passenger side of the panel and work my way back to the center of the
car popping out each clip in turn:
There is a single cable for the hazard warning lights that needs to be released
on this piece.
15. Pop out the meter (gauge cluster) hood. Note, you don’t need to actually remove this, just pop it out and move it to the side far enough that we can get access to the CMU.
Start by lowering the steering wheel as far as possible. You can then pop the
hood out by pulling it straight back towards the rear of the car. It is held in
by two clips immediately on the steering wheel side of each air vent. Once
released, move the hood rearwards and towards the driver side of the car, out
of the way of the CMU:
16. Remove the display screen and CMU. This is attached with a single 10mm bolt:
Once the bolt is removed, pull the unit back to release:
There are five cables on the back of the unit that need to be released. The cable with the black and green plug will be replaced by our new cables. The other cables will be reused. Pay attention to which cable comes out of which socket as you are releasing each.
We have now removed all necessary trim pieces.
STEP 2 – USB HUB REPLACEMENT
We’ll now replace the original USB hub in the front console with our new unit.
1. Separate the front console trim from the rest of the unit by pulling it backwards until
the retaining clips release:
2. Remove the airbag / seatbelt warning light unit by undoing the two Philips screws on
each side:
3. Pop out the old USB Hub by pushing down on the 4 retaining tabs, one at a time.
Slide the old unit out and then slide the new unit in in its place. (Sorry – I
somehow forgot to take pictures of this).
4. Once the new unit clicks in to place, reassemble the front console by screwing the
light panel back in place and clicking the trim back on.
STEP 3 – USB CABLE PREPARATION
We’re now going to prepare the USB cables for installation by lining up the plugs on each cable, measuring out the required run, and tidying up the excess cable with cable ties and foam. The Mazda instructions provide the following diagram showing what we are trying to do:
The measurements in this are pretty good. I found by following these I had just enough cable to work with without large amounts of excess in the way as I was reinstalling everything. My prepared cables looked like this:
STEP 4 – USB CABLE ROUTING
1. Move your prepared USB cables to the car.
2. Route the end of the cables you wrapped in foam tape (with the black and brown
connectors) from the top of the dash down to the bottom:
I found there was enough of a gap in the area shown to be able to route the cables down quite easily:
3. Once you have the cables routed, align the new USB cables with the existing cable
(black plug with foam wrapped cable), wrap the existing plug with foam so it
doesn’t rattle against anything, bend it back out of the way, and attach the
new cables to the existing wiring harness with a cable tie:
4. Tuck the excess USB cable that you wrapped in foam under the upper dashboard member:
Secure the excess cable to the dash member with a cable tie:
5. As with the lower USB cables, align the new upper USB cables with the existing
cable, wrap the existing cable in foam, bend it back out of the way and secure
the cables to the existing wiring harness with a cable tie. :
6. Secure any excess length of the new USB cables to the dash member with a cable tie. I
didn’t grab a photo of this, but you can see it in the wiring diagram above.
STEP 5 – RECONNECT USB HUB AND CMU
1. Place the CMU / display unit and front panel containing the new USB hub close enough to their respective connectors to be able to plug them back in, but do not
fully reinstall the units just yet.
2. Connect the USB hub and CMU according to the following diagram. Any cable not on this diagram should be replaced in the plug it was originally removed from. One of those discreet connections is the GPS antenna cable, that has caught many by surprise by not getting plugged back in in securely (audible click of the connector latch), and not realized until everything is buttoned up and they’re on a test drive (or perhaps a few weeks later), wondering why the Navigation isn’t working. There are two additional cables that need to go back in to the CMU, and a cable for the airbag /seatbelt warning lights in the front panel. Each plug will only fit in the socket it is intended for, but double-check that each have been clicked into place.
3. Once everything is plugged in, reconnect the negative terminal on your battery and
push the start button once to put the car in accessory mode. Plug your phone
into the new USB socket with the smartphone icon and confirm CarPlay or Android
Auto starts up (make sure you are running iOS 12 on your iPhone for the best experience.
I believe on Android phones you may need to download an app to enable Android
Auto, but I’m not familiar enough with it to say for sure):
- If everything starts up – congratulations, the install is complete.
- You have a choice between AA and CarPlay. Don’t experiment, but rather decide which will it be. If AA has been selected, DON’T UNCHECK THAT BOX! There seems to be a glitch whereby you won’t be able to get AA working again if AA has been de-selected, requiring you to reinstall the firmware. Not sure if CarPlay behaves the same, or not.
- If there are any problems, double check to insure you have plugged the new USB cables in to the correct sockets securely, and try again.
- Switch off the car by hitting start twice, and then button everything back up by reversing the trim removal instructions, paying attention to the CMU isolator ⇓ that may be hiding on your floor mat…
Chances are very good that the anti-rattle isolator that slides onto the tab at the rear of the CMU will detach itself while sliding the CMU out of the DIN slot. Just be aware of this as you are assembling the CMU back into position.

courtesy of poniliu

courtesy of anderml
Switching to Apple CarPlay™ with Version 70+ firmware
source: Mazda6 web owner’s manual, with ameridan’s edits/corrections
Switching to Apple CarPlay™
Connect the iPhone® by inserting the Apple®-compatible connector cord to the USB port indicated by the mark.
-
When you switch your iPhone® connection from Bluetooth® to the vehicle’s USB port, the system switches to Apple CarPlay™. The applications which were being used via Bluetooth® connection can be used continuously. However, the available functions of the applications using Bluetooth® connection and those on Apple CarPlay™ may differ.
-
If the iPhone® is connected to the USB port not indicated by the
mark, the system operates in USB mode instead.
Display of Apple CarPlay™ Screen
Use any of the following methods to display the Apple CarPlay™ screen in the center display.
-
Select
on the home screen.
-
Long press
on the commander switch panel.
-
Select
on the home screen, and select
from the Applications screen.
Apple CarPlay™ home screen
The icons and icon positions displayed on the Apple CarPlay™ home screen may differ depending on the connected iPhone® and iOS version.
No. |
Icon |
Explanation |
---|---|---|
![]() |
Icons representing apps installed on the connected iPhone® |
Launches the Apple CarPlay™ application. (Refer to the help information available with each application for the method of using each application.) |
![]() |
![]() |
Switches to the Mazda/Fiat Connect home screen. |
![]() |
![]() |
Displays the Apple CarPlay™ home screen. |
Convenient Ways to Use Apple CarPlay™
Item |
Operation method |
---|---|
Activating the voice recognition function (Siri®)*1 |
Activate Siri® using any of the following two methods to operate Apple CarPlay™ by voice.
|
To display the Now Playing screen |
When music is playing in Apple CarPlay™ and a screen other than the Now Playing screen is being displayed, press |
To display the MAP screen |
When using map route guidance in Apple CarPlay™ and a screen other than the MAP screen is being displayed, press |
To return to Mazda/Fiat Connect screens, including Navigation |
Press and hold |
*1 The voice recognition function of Mazda/Fiat Connect cannot be used while Apple CarPlay™ is connected.
To End Apple CarPlay™
To end Apple CarPlay™, disconnect the Apple®-compatible connector cord from the USB port.
Switching to Android Auto™ with Version 70+ firmware
source: Mazda6 web owner’s manual, with ameridan’s edits/corrections
How to use the Android Auto™ mode
Insert an Android™ Smartphone-compatible connector cord into the USB port indicated by the icon to connect the Smartphone.
-
When you switch your Android™ Smartphone connection from Bluetooth® to the vehicle’s USB port, the system switches to Android Auto™. The applications which were being used via Bluetooth® connection can be used continuously. However, the available functions of the applications using Bluetooth® connection and those on Android Auto™ may differ.
-
If the Android™ Smartphone is connected to the USB port not indicated by the
mark, the system operates in USB mode instead.
Display of Android Auto™ Mode Screen
Use any of the following methods to display the Android Auto™ mode screen in the center display.
-
Select
on the home screen, and select
from the Applications screen.
-
Select
on the home screen.
-
Press and hold
on the commander switch.
Android Auto™ mode home screen
The media displayed on the Android Auto™ home screen may differ depending on the use conditions and version of the connected Android™ Smartphone.
No. |
Icon |
Explanation |
---|---|---|
![]() |
- |
Displays the use history of each application. The displayed contents differ depending on the application that has been started and its status. |
![]() |
![]() |
Switches to the map application. |
![]() |
![]() |
Switches to the call mode. |
![]() |
![]() |
Displays the Android Auto™ home screen. |
![]() |
![]() |
Switches to the Music application. |
![]() |
![]() |
Switches to the Mazda Connect home screen. |
Convenient ways to use Android Auto™ mode
Item |
Operation method |
---|---|
Operation using voice recognition*1 |
Any of the following methods can be used to start the voice recognition mode and operate Android Auto™ by voice.
|
To display the Now Playing screen |
When music is playing in Android Auto™ and a screen other than the Now Playing screen is being displayed, press |
To display the MAP screen |
When using map route guidance in Android Auto™ and a screen other than the MAP screen is being displayed, press |
To return to Mazda/Fiat Connect screens, including Navigation |
Press and hold |
*1 The voice recognition function of Mazda/Fiat Connect cannot be used while Android Auto™ is connected.
To End Android Auto™
To end Android Auto™, disconnect the Android™ Smartphone-compatible connector cord from the USB port.
Nice! You guys have been rocking on this one.
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I did accidently installed the 70.00.335 version Mazda firmware after i installed ID7 on my 2017 Spider 124.
Can the navigation issue and Mazda logo be fixed with 70.00.335? If not can i install the older 70.00.21 version firmware back on my fiat.
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You will only be able to tweak now, if you are willing to perform all the extra steps listed in https://mazdatweaks.com/id7/ and https://mazdatweaks.com/serial/
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Dan,
I can’t say it wasn’t happening before but it definitely is now. Early on I installed the V70 firmware and the hub. As you released tweaks like boot animations and such I installed them, then the GPS software, and now the full kit. Whenever I unplug my iphone while using carplay the whole CMU goes black and locks up. I can still get in and out of the backup camera, but the screen stays black permanently until I turn off the car.
I can’t tell if I simply have to little memory left and its overloaded, possibly because of installing the GPS and boot animations again over themselves (leaving trash behind?) or what, I can try going back to the home screen before unplugging.
Thoughts?
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That’s not good…
I would reinstall the version 70 firmware, and then run the Universal Mazda –> Fiat tweak, as there is a routine that relocates some files to the resources folder. We may have to add code to kill off log dump files (.bz2) left behind in the tmp folder as well.
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I can probably manage that today or tomorrow, will let you know. I was wondering if a clean install might do it.
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so I did it, couple notes. I had the 70.00.21 version installed. Today I updated it to 70.00.100. It took only about 30 minutes total, the 70.00.100 update was maybe 25. After that I booted in, made sure everything seemed fine and started carplay. Unplugged, no black screen, no issues.
After that I ran the Maz->Fiat update package. Same check, carplay, no issues or hangups.
After that I ran 1 compile made with the Maz-Aio to remove warning, and enable touchscreen. I like my system pretty stock, don’t need the bells and whistles, just want it a little more streamlined. Same check, carplay, no issues. So all is good now!
Additional background, over the course of a couple months, the CMU went to 70.00.21, then used the AIO to remove the warning and touchscreen, I cannot remember which one, then when you had the boot animations, those, I had tried the scorpion shutdown, wasn’t a fan so I removed it to save space. Then I removed the NNG to save more space. Then I added the Fiat NNG because you got it working, super awesome appreciate it, then I ran the full Maz-Fiat package to get the total overhaul. I don’t know what of any of those several upgrades over time left junk, but I did basically run the boot anims, and NNG at least twice, running the AIO script something like 6 times on the same system.
Hope this is useful.
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Made upgrade to ver. 70 on my EU specs Abarth. Everything works perfectly.
After installation of Mazda-to-Fiat AIO everything is exactly as before ( I had ver. 56 with Abarth branding)
No displays of Mazda logo, Bluetooth ID named 124 spider, no issue of echo on Bluetooth phone call.
Last but not least, all picture/drawing of our spider in maintenance menu are correct. No Mazda images, this is due to the fact that those images come from dashboard, 124 dashboard get 124 images, other Mazda model get other Vehicles displayed. May be this information is useful for someone.
Thank you to all, great work.
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Sorry but I must amend my past comment, I’ve been told that there’s echo issue on incoming calls via Bluetooth on my ver. 70.00.100 EU
No issues at all if the iPhone is connected and using CarPlay.
The person who’s calling hears a little bit of echo of his voice.
In the car you hear perfectly.
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Thank you Luca. As Stefan states, 70.00.335 fixes the echo issue, but it is quite a chore installing that version in conjunction with id7 (needed to be able to tweak), so a decision needs to be made as to whether the issue warrants all of the extra effort.
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There are some who claim 70.00.21 and 70.00.100 are the same, but I don’t agree. Mazda released 70.00.100 as an official upgrade to version 56 & 59, so there must have been some differences. Trezdog has also confirmed that the boot animations differ between the 2 versions.
So glad to hear all is fine now – and for those following these comments, 70.00.100 is the preferred firmware to install for the CarPlay retrofit.
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I initially upgraded to 70.00.21 and all worked ok including the separate Mazda-Abarth tweaks a couple weeks ago. I tried to run the single new tweak set and it said not enough memory in rootfs or something and wouldnt complete. Today I updated to 70.00.100 and used the single Mazda-Abarth tweak set and all went smoothly. So not sure whether different firmware versions affected memory. Thanks for all your work. Geoff
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FYI, For anyone installing Speedometer with Mazda AIO 2.8.4, there is now a patched version (to fix Speedometer issues), available here.
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Has anybody tried installing Digital Bar Speedometer on a standard 124 spider?
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I’m having an issue with the statusbar & speedometer compass being reversed when my navigation SD is in use (it is ok with the Mazda / Fiat Compass app running)
This has only started happening since i installed V70 firmware; and everything else is working as expected.
I’ve tried all the tricks I have found (setting the SD card variable etc.) and completely re-flashing the firmware, Mazda to Fiat tweak and everything else; but it’s still 180 degrees out
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I seem to recall reading that the compass orientation depends on whether the nav card is inserted while running the tweak. Whatever you did previously, reinsert the USB to reinstall the speedometer tweak, but alter the SD card insertion while the tweak is installing. If that doesn’t work, we’ll have to ask trezdog…
Also, did you try the patched version I mention in the comment above?
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Yes, I’ve tried both those – (installing with and without the SD card being present) and using the new, patched Mazda AIO tweaks app. The compass is correct so long as the navigation SD is not present, but the second it is inserted it flips 180 degrees.
Taking the SD out again flips the compass back to the correct orientation, but once again re-inserting the SD card flips it the wrong way.
[EDIT by ameridan 4/25/2019: Stuart has tweaked the Speedometer tweak, so that the compass orientation is correct with the SD card in place. Details to be added to the end of the article, when available]
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I’ve been reading in the Mazda forum, that echo cancellation isn’t working as well as expected with firmware 70.00.100, and that 70.00.120 will be released very soon to address that issue, so that those you are conversing with don’t hear everything twice. I was wondering if perhaps the microphones in both the phone, and the vehicle, were activated, but that is apparently not the reason for the echo.
70.00.120 will probably be the final version for this hardware version in Mazda vehicles, as the new hardware that I talk about in my article M.Y. 2019 Fiat Connect? is being phased in now.
We’re all hoping that the equivalent “final Version 70 firmware” releases will be made available for both Fiat & Abarth vehicles, and I’d put money on the current CMU hardware continuing on in our vehicles, even after Miatas see the newer hardware (similar to the telescoping steering wheels and revised visors not showing up the 124 Spiders).
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Download of the files from HiDrive are excruciatingly slow. Is there a mirror site or can someone drop them into a Google Drive and give me a link? Thanks.
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v70.00.120 NA does exist. There is a thread on the Mazda forum (link below), proves it. This software is being installed by Mazda to address the phone echo issue in v70.00.100 NA. The s/w is not yet generally available, even to Mazda dealers. Mazda owners who report the echo issue are having their CMUs removed and set to Mazda’s repair contractor. When they come back from repair, they have the new .120 s/w version installed. No word on if or when that s/w will be made available to Mazda dealers. Once that happens, it will probably be quickly uploaded to the usual servers so that we can get it. But no idea when. Here’s the discussion thread on the Mazda forum: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=680943
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This is all great stuff, I made it through the serial patch application on my 2018, the firmware upgrade and the MazdatoFiatAIO, all is working except I have no GPS. The sync for the clock dosent work nor does the NAV, The car thinks it is in Houston Texas, 2400 miles from my location. Any thoughts? I am not continuing with the hardware portion until I resolve the GPS, but I am very hopeful to get this addressed. Thanks!
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Solved as issue was self inflicted. It is important to note that the wiring harness feeding the CMU does not have all the modular plugs in the one loom. The single GPS antenna connection, closest to the instrument cluster (LHD), is independent and could easily overlooked, at least by me.
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I just included a sentence about that connection to Step 5; Item 2, as that has happened to others too, Marc.
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I did it! But…I lose the touch screen when my car is moving..does that mean I need more memory?
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You can install the touchscreen tweak, but it will have no effect while using Android Auto (CarPlay should be good though).
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Thanks. I had your v56 tweaks before with touchscreen and when I upgraded to 70 I didn’t realize it went back to defaults which meant no touchscreen.
Whoops. Doing the aio tweaks fixed the problem. If I can do this, anyone can!
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Actually, I thought that was the one tweak that was supposed to survive firmware upgrades.
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Digital Bar Speedometer has anybody tried this on a 124 spider looks really cool
anyone?
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After reading Mazda’s TSB regarding 70.00.335, I clarified the article:
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Hello
I installed your AIO package in my ver. 56 EU Abarth. Now I’m involved in update to ver.70 to have CarPlay. Thanks for your jobs and your passion for our car!
Just a quick info about id7 autorun: I think I’ve made all correctly but is there a way to double check if id7 is properly installed prior to proceed with any software update?
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There is a “dryrun” script that you can run, that will result in the following message indicating that id7 was successful:
please don’t ask me to find it though 😉
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Okay! Do you think installing again id7 could be useful or better not to try if already done?
I’m quite sure I got id7 correctly, it’s just my scruple before uptading to ver. 70.. cause I’m more confident sitting behind the steering wheel than manage software 😀
Thanks
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Luca, if you saw this, you’ll be fine.
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The link to the Mazda Firmware instructions no longer works – (2018 FIRMWARE CMU UPDATE PROCEDURE-WORLDWIDE.PDF). Can anyone update this as it seems to be a critical part of the install?
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Hi Tom,
I’ve made the file available on my site, and I also fixed the instructions to point to the right folder, so you should be all set. Looks like the owner of those files did some rearranging (again).
I also added a note:
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Thank’s. FANTASTIC Job… Great stuff.
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I’ve made the universal version 70 FIAT AIO tweak installation. Works perfectly.
Can I install the touchscreen tweak and perform map updates without running the risk of breaking the previous installation?
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Map updates are on the SD card independent of the system version. The touchscreen version may already be installed, if you had it prior to the version 70. If not, that tweak should be fine, but use the Mazda AIO anyways. No matter what, you can’t have touchscreen for Android Auto though.
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Just installed v70.00.100 NA N today, used the zip MazdaToFiatV70 confirming ID7v2 worked.
Then installed the hardware and confirmed Android Auto worked.
Then v70.00.335 that fixes the BT echo, used serial to hack it https://mazdatweaks.com/id7/ and installed the Fiat zip again, and a few tweaks.
So far so good, thank you guys!
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Hello,
What are symptoms of not having enough memory? If I turn the car off, then back on shortly after, I just get stuck at the boot screen. I can only get out of this endless bootscreen if I walk away and come back to car 5 minutes later.
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I’ve never encountered the situation, so it would be nice to get more details. Did you install additional tweaks (speedometer, animated exit, etc.), different firmware, pair your phone with a lot of contacts, etc? Those would be some things to reverse in an attempt to fix.
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I was on v56, installed ID7 patch, then upgraded to 70.00.100, then installed MazdaToFiatV70AIO, then upgraded Gracenote to v9, then finally All-in-one_tweaks_V1.51Fiat_c with options A, C, and M.
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Well, it is advisable to install tweaks A, C, and M using the MZD-AIO package instead, especially M. For the heck of it, use All-in-one_tweaks_V1.51Fiat_c to uninstall M (and perhaps later – A and C if still not favorable outcome) and then use MZD-AIO to install that tweak instead. That package is designed to install in a different folder, in order that memory isn’t compromised any further.
In fact, when I emailed you the link to All-in-one_tweaks_V1.51Fiat_c, there should have been a note: “P.S. This tweak package is intended for version 56 firmware (and 59 upgrades), but not for Version 70 firmware.”
Please report back, so we all know if my theory is correct.
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I just started having this issue also.
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I was able to Uninstall A, C, and M tweaks. However, right now, what is happening is shortly after the CMU turns on, the physical buttons are not responding. I can still move the control knob, but pushing down seems to no longer have any effect. Same with the touch screen.
Please see attached video:
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John, your CMU isn’t bricked, but I think 68wooley would agree with me, that it might be best to start the procedure over, beginning with the firmware install. Perhaps he’ll pipe in. He’s had to start over a few times while we were developing the tweaks.
Before you do that though…
Now that I think of it, the uninstall may have upset the home page, since it doesn’t include the links to CarPlay and Android Auto (neither does my tweaks, which is another reason not to use them for version 70 firmware.
Try the A, C and M tweaks using the MZD-AIO, and that may restore order.
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OMG THAT WORKED!!! Thank you so much for your help ameridan!
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Earlier this month, 68wooley figured out where the 70.00.100 firmware files were “hidden”, and having found them, I’ve edited the article with the new links for NA, EU, and 4A files.
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I added 2 Android Auto screen shots (courtesy of “Dave” on the Fiat 124 forum) today, for those that might be curious how AA appears.
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Almost done (Carplay already checked out OK) but having trouble where I least expected it – Reinstalling interior. Specifically the “front (center) console surround and front panel” assembly consisting of 4 parts. 2 lower sides, arch over the top and the panel with the usb hub. It was originally very hard to get out because the LHD passenger side forward clip (only) where the arch and right side piece join wouldn’t pop out without enormous force and a sudden snap loud enough to hear next door. Close inspection showed no damage though. But now that same clip won’t go back in. The other clips snap in with ease but the most forward passenger side won’t snap into its hole. The locator tab goes in but the clip wedge at the base of the tab just pushes the whole lower dash area forward – bending it until the assembly can’t be pushed further – without ever snapping through the hole. Which leaves the whole right side out of place and loose. There are no obstructions except the clip itself. If suggestions are available – I need some!
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The trick to this is to partially remove the rear part of the centre console trim – the bit from the infotainment controller back to the cup holders.
Undo the two Phillips screws at the front near the gear lever, then pull up quite hard at the cup holder end (do each side individually) and the entire trim piece will come loose.
Then rebuild the trim you’d previously taken out from the front backwards, making this rearmost piece the last thing to go back in (bit before the gear lever surround)
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Thanks for the response Stu. But that’s exactly what I’ve done. My problem is not about procedure. . It is that a critical clip is refusing to go back into it’s proper hole. It’s bending its mounting point rather than clipping into it.
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I just added a clarification to the upgrade procedure for those that have newer vehicles and were put off by having to pull out their CMU for the “serial” method of installing id7:
[EDIT 9/14/2020] >> this was based on bad info perhaps, because now I found this from Tristan-cx5:
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I’m on the CarPlay user learning curve. Apple Maps and Google Maps work as expected. But wife is a big Waze fan and that one is giving me trouble. Specifically, whenever it’s selected in CarPlay, it messes with the car audio. Shuts off main left channel, lowers right channel continuously – not just when speaking directions. I can only clear it by going to the phone and swiping away Waze on the phone screen. I haven’t found anything about this issue searching online. I’m on most current update of iOS12 with iPhone6. Online support says it should be working.
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Ameridan, I installed a previous version of AA about 18 months ago on my 2017 Fiat 124 and absolutely loved it. Then after about 6 months it started dropping out intermittently, as if it were a cable issue. I tried new cables unsuccessfully, then gave up for a while. Just got a new phone (with new cables) and tried it again. Ran great for about 20 minutes, then started dropping out again. Wiggling the cable or connector at the usb port on the car “seems” to get the connection back, but only for a minute or two. I’m not even convinced the wiggling is what’s restoring the connection; could be coincidental. So, tonight I’m looking at the retrofit kit and reading your blog. Am I reading correctly that the touchscreen won’t work with AA? It worked great during my blissful 20 minutes the other day. I’m hoping I’m reading this incorrectly, because i’m not sure I want to go to the trouble of the retrofit and not have the touchscreen with AA. Can you clarify?
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Tim, the touchscreen tweak applies to everything except the official Android Auto app – that is correct.
Possible solutions:
1) I think you can disable “automatic updates” in Google Play (advanced settings), and have it prompt you before updating apps instead. Then I would reinstall the older version of AA that you liked, and not update it.
2) You may have too many contacts in your phone, which when syncing with the CMU, occupies too much memory.
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Hi American, I have a 2019 spider Abarth and am attempting to install Apple CarPlay. It had version 59.00.562 and I downgraded to version 59.00.502 without trouble. I am now trying to install ID7 patch. I downloaded files to USB Drive but when inserted in car nothing happens. I would appreciate any help/suggestions. Thank you, Tom
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Tom, apparently I offered that advice based on bad info, and I’ll amend the article/comments accordingly. Looks like you’re still stuck with the serial method. I’m sorry.
Now I found this from Tristan-cx5:
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Another successful install. Followed the fantastic instructions and had no problems. Thank you very much for all of the hours put into this.
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Hi Ameridan,
Thanks for the guide. I’m struggling to understand the Speedometer section with regards to the version of AIO Tweaks.
From my understanding, the first step is to install using MazdaToFiatV70AIO. After doing so, can AIO 2.8.6 be run again separately? Will this erase the Mazda to Fiat conversions previously run?
I’d appreciate your help in clearing this up for me!
Best,
David
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Each tweak you want to install has to be chosen, so when you select the Speedometer tweak using AIO 2.8.6, other tweaks will not be affected. Some have had issues after uninstalling the Speedometer app though, so try to be sure you really want it.
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Hi All,
Just want to give a shoutout for all the hard work ameridan has done to make this happen. I’ve been studying all the websites, the downloads, and the instructions, and finally made a go of updating my 2019 124. Had to uses the serial method and it worked perfect! Then a firmware upgrade to .100, and then rant the mazda to fiat tweaks, and finally updated Gracenote back to 9. Did the hardware, watched more videos on pulling the car apart, and then it all came together. Ran some tweaks and will do some driving tomorrow with the new system.
Just curious as to why the touch screen won’t work with Android Auto google maps? Anybody know?
Also, is it worth the hassle to go to version .335?
Feel free to message me if I can be of some help to someone else/
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Eric,
Android Auto (AA) was intentionally programmed to disallow touchscreen capability. Today however, I was surprised to learn that a version of the AA tweak (which has always allowed for touchscreen use) has been released specifically for version 70 firmware! Apparently, Mazda AIO v2.8.6 tweak “No More Disclaimer” must be installed first, and the app is called AA Tru_go V1.15. If you’d like to install others tweaks e.g speedometer, video player, status bar, fuel consumption, and presumably, my Version 70 Mazda-to-Fiat package, etc.. You must install them after AA Tru_go V1.15, otherwise they will not work. Other notes:
Please review radarwild’s thread thoroughly, before proceeding – all the details can be found at:
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/aa-tru_go-v1-15a-fw59-00-504-fw70-00-xx-fw70-00-352.242299/
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Just a quick update on my system, been working perfectly for 16-18 months. Added the Motorola MA-1 and now no cables at all in the car. Works perfectly, no issues. Ver70.00.100
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Is there any advantage to doing the firmware update if I don’t plan to swap the hardware?
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“ANY” advantage? That’s a loaded question. 😉
I’m sure there must be a couple of minor enhancements, but in my opinion, if you aren’t having any issues, as in my case, it may be best to keep it as-is. However, if you do choose to upgrade the USB hub in the future for CarPlay/AA, there is a possibility that the 70.00.100 firmware files might not be available online. Then again, there might be an aftermarket single DIN head unit produced a few years down the road, that may surpass what’s available currently, with technology we have yet to imagine…
As long as we’re dreaming:
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I have a problem.
I did by myself the 70.00.100 firmware update following your great guide, and then reinstalling the Fiat stuff with your program.
I went to the Mazda service to have the hardware installed, saying almost a thousand time not to update the software.
And what did they do?
They updated it to 70.00.357 (I think, I don’t remember), so I had a Mazda branded car with no possibility of tweaking.
I downgraded the firmware to 70.00.100 again but now the tweaking via USB isn’t possible anymore.
If I downgrade again to version 59 will I be able to try to reinstall ID7 or I have to come back to the service to kill them all?
What can I do to have back the Fiat logos, names, and the navigator?
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[EDITED with corrections]
Andrea, If your instructions to the dealer were in writing, I think the dealer needs to work with you on their dime. If I’m not mistaken, you would have to first install the old hub to downgrade lower than version 70 anyways, and then install the new hub once again. Anyways, downgrading further won’t help.
However I think you can reinstall the 70.00.100 again and accomplish the id7 and tweaks, but only if performed in conjunction with a serial connection as outlined in https://mazdatweaks.com/id7/.
The dealer really ruined your upgrade experience!
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I added james.today’s photo, and a sentence explaining the solution, to the article today, for the benefit of others with newer 124 Spiders (2018+):
The only way to be able to proceed with these tweaks, should you find yourself at a firmware version that procludes tweaking via USB, is to install 70.00.100 with a laptop connected to the CMU via the serial input, as shown in https://mazdatweaks.com/id7/
Good luck at the dealer, Andrea!
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To complement the last comment, I saw this much more reliable solution for hooking up the serial wires today @ https://www.124spider.org/threads/cmu-serial-connection-w-o-sumitomo-pins.39674/#post-558439, and although it takes a little extra time to pop the cover off of the CMU, it saves you trying to find the correct pins. I added a photo of his, since it clearly shows where the pins are.
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I have a 2019 Spider with OS version 59.00.524 NA N. Rather than dealing with the “serial input” update…
1) What if I were to buy a Mazda CMU from the dealer for a 2020 or 2021, and install it with the USB updated USB hub. Would it work?
2) Would the Mazda CMU for some reason not work in the Fiat?
3) Assuming there is no compatibility issue, can I just use your “tweaks” to make Fiat Navigation work and replace all the “Mazda” graphics to “Fiat”?
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1) + 2) If the Mazda CMU already has the new USB firmware (70+), that should work, but it won’t have Fiat graphics, and the Fiat Nav card won’t work.
3) Unless you do the serial input, you can’t do any tweaking.
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STEP 1 – DOWNLOAD REQUIRED FILES
We’ll start by downloading the required firmware files and Ameridan’s three tweak packages.
1.Go to [UPDATED LINKS 6/17/2020]:
every links are: Unfortunately we could not find the site you are looking for.
where i can find it?
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I’ll check it out when I get home from vacation.
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ok, i’ll be waiting. thx a lot 🙂
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According to one of the experts, the files are not currently available (at least in that hidrive location, where they’ve always been). Hopefully, Google is your friend, but although many have downloaded those files, since the size is quite large, many hosting sites aren’t going to accept those files to share with others.
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I ordered the hardware from Amazon and now am looking for the software but it appears that the drive the v70.00.100 NA N software was on is no longer available. Is there another link that I’m missing? Thanks!
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I think I found a new source for the files, and I posted the link in the article today.
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😦 ok, thx for answer. Mayby someone know’s where i can find a checked files for downgrades 59.00.524.
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I think I found a new source for the firmware files, and I posted the link in the article today.
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For anyone interested in a “professional” installation, there’s a place in the UK that now sells a complete kit: https://124spider.uk/blog/price-drop-carplay-kits
I’m in the USA, but I had it delivered and took it to a local car stereo shop today for installation, and it is working great. The only hitch was that the instructions on the included thumb drive turned out to be incomplete, and the shop guys spent a frustrating hour or so, before finally finding the complete instructions on the company’s website.
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I’m on 70.00.100 now (NA) and I think I need to refresh it. Is there anyway to do that without doing it via serial port? I guess it wouldn’t be as easy as just renaming the file .101 instead of .100 and then it would update?
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Links are down again 😦
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This time, it looks as though Mazda has forced the removal of all the FW hosting sites it’s aware of. ASH8 on Mazda3Revolution mentions this in his master info thread over there. Hopefully the files will pop up somewhere else in the not to distant future. I’m truly cheesed off at Mazda over this. Any software company that restricts what users can do with their own systems is…well…what I have to say about them is not fit to print. Just my opinion here and YMMV, but it looks like people wanting to attempt the upgrade are (at least temporarily) SOL.
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Maybe someone has saved the firmware files? Upload it to the cloud disk or send it to the mail jkspear@yandex.ru, please…
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Hi, the firmware link on Mega is offline, anyone know where to find the firmware files? Thanks
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This link is not working. Where can I find the files I need to update? Thank s
@ https://mega.nz/folder/YWx3lCIT#6179hwSHeAaPeLF25wvlYQ
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Best bet would be to convince someone who has already downloaded the files to upgrade their USB hub, to somehow make them available to you.
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Without those files we’re dead in the water, right?
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Yes
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North America files are said to be available @ https://odysee.com/@BookAutowerks:0/FIAT-124-CarPlay-files:9
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I can supply the EU update files for 70.00.100A if anyone is in need.
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That’s great – I’ve been looking for it everywhere. Can you upload the files – the best way would be via “wetransfer”, or by email if not too big.
my email: woerndl.gerhard@gmail.com
Many thanks and greetings from Salzburg / Austria
Gerard
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Please find a link to onedrive below. (Not my onedrive)
https://bit.ly/3qMnOKP
Follow ;
Current Firmware-EU N –> EU N with 31.00.100A or newer –> EU N 70.00.100A
File should be located there
If link goes down I can re upload
Greetings from Holland !
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many many thanks to you – you made my day!!!!
Greets Gerhard
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Yes, I’m in need. Is this offer still available?
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Sure, no problem.
I re uploaded it
https://1fichier.com/?sxgyrgc3raoibzjri70q
Let me know if you need help
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Mi faresti un grosso favore ti lascio la mia email – giuseppeantonio1@gmail.com. Non so proprio dove trovare i file e aggiornare il sistema
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The link is still valid, you can download it there and find instruction on this great blog 🙂
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quick question. why in the link above, the reinstall file is 2gb?? while in other sources its significantly smaller?
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By design, that is the upgrade/downgrade process. One file contains the instructions, while the other contains the full firmware.
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oh, just realised in your link its EU version. Is there a difference between EU and NA?
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I mean im located in Europe. But the car is US specs. With current NA firmware. so Im just wondering if its possible and worth to upgrade to EU firmware. But cant find any info anywhere whats the difference between the two.
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Yes, there is a difference. For instance, do you pick up DAB stations with NA firmware? Probably not.
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Buongiorno, qualcuno di voi sa perchè il mio MZD AIO non si apre più e mi da questo errore (“caught unhandled exception: SyntaxError: Failed to execute ‘measure’ on ‘Performance’: The mark ‘[object Object]’ does not exist. Qualcuno mi può aiutare a risolvere?
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Ive been breaking my head over this too. You need to disable wifi before opening the app. then it should work.
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Hello from Salzburg/Austria. I don’t know who worked on this post,
but thanks to your fantastic work, I managed to do everything as I wanted.
I want to thank you all very much!!!!
Best regards
Gerard
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Hello, everyone
I installed the speedometer display and have a problem with it. the status display on the right shows the altitude and the speed. This indicator goes on once for a few seconds, off again, on again, and so on.
Do you know the problem and if so, can you please help me.
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Differences between Replacement USB cables: Mazda Part C922-V6-605A, Replacement USB HUB: Mazda Part TK78-66-9U0C and not Genuine Mazda version like this ASIN on Amazon B0999C284Q ? Thanks
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The Amazon description for “CARABC Apple Carplay Adapter Compatible with Mazda 2/3/6/CX3/CX5/CX9/MX5/FIAT 124 2014-2021 Year, Fit for Carplay & Android Auto, TK78-66-9U0C OEM Hub Retrofit Kit Fits MZD Connect System, 00008FZ34” implies that they are the same, saving you the trouble of ordering from Aliexpress ?, but I will not vouch for them. If you do go this route, let us know of the outcome.
Note the return policy: Return this item for free
Free returns are available for the shipping address you chose. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition: no shipping charges.
If you try it out, and it doesn’t work, it’s no longer in unused condition?
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Added note today regarding wireless CarPlay:
Be forewarned that if you want wireless CarPlay, you’ll need firmware version at (or above) 74.00.200 – which means you will not be able to tweak via USB (including this Universal Version 70 Fiat AIO Tweak). You will also need the wireless version (Ver. P3) of USB hub ET-1594.
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