Adding a Radar Detector, Dash-cam, powered mirror

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I’m throwing some ideas out for those thinking of adding Dash-cams or Radar Detectors without using suction-cup brackets.

There is a (hidden, capped) 12 volt accessory plug integrated with the HVAC mix unit/blower assembly in the passenger’s foot well (look just above where the passenger’s left foot would reside) that may be the easiest method for supplying power on a temporary basis, but for those that would rather wire in a more permanent solution, tapping into the interior fuse module in the driver’s foot well is an ideal solution.

Turborascal has written up his process for doing just that to install his dash cam and I’m using that as a basis for this article (and some of his photos).  His dash cam had a requirement for both a “hot” (always-on) 12 volt source (so that the camera can record when motion is detected while parked) and a switched 12 volt source (for normal operation while driving).  So he ordered two (2) low profile mini-fuse taps (shown above) that snugly plug into the fuse slots to provide fuse-protected power.  Here is the same fuse tap for a couple dollars more, because it comes with five fuses (one each –  5 amp, 7.5 amp, 10 amp, 15 amp, 20 amp).

[ADDED 7/21/2017]
Make sure they are the Lumision brand if you want a snug fit! (per Mark Booth as well).  Others that stated the fir seemed to loose, or wouldn’t insert were buying brands that were available at their local auto parts store, like Littlefuse.

By probing his fuse block with a 12 volt meter, he found the ideal fuses to tap into…

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⇓  He chose fuse #5 for 12 volt switched power and fuse #9 for his hot 12 volt source. Please note the orientation of the fuse taps that he recommends…

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photos courtesy of turborascal

He also recommends that the ideal ground connection point is behind the 10 mm bolt that secures the fuse module (note the black wire with an eyelet terminal adjacent to fuse #5).

⇓  Rfiner used the tips offered in Turborascal’s article while wiring  up a dash cam in his MX-5 RF, which has fewer empty fuse slots, and ended up using fuse #6 for 12 volt switched power and fuse #14 for his hot 12 volt source instead.  Note that a fuse tap plugged into fuse #14 (or any of the other slots in the bottom row) needs to be oriented downwards though.  He added:

I used the low-profile mini fuse taps and found it’s already very tightly fitted to the fusebox. I don’t think I need to modify the fuse taps to catch the two “fingers”

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⇓  tylerwatt states that he had trouble inserting the low-profile mini fuse taps (perhaps he used a brand other than Lumision), but that regular mini fuse taps worked very well, but that you then need to stock up on a different additional series of fuses.

low profile mini tap vs regular mini tap


Other related articles…

Radar Mount produces a variety of products that make use of your rear-view mirror wiring and windshield mounting bracket geared towards radar detectors.

Warhammer also did a writeup using a similar fuse tap to replace his standard rear-view mirror with an auto-dimming version which requires power.  Depending on the brand and model you buy, there are different combinations of features (auto-dimming, compass, temp display, Homelink, additional map light).  Here’s a link to the popular Gentex auto-dimming mirror with Homelink and built-in compass.

gentex mirror

theemike tapped into power mirror harness for his Escort radar detector install, using the brown/black wire for switched +12VDC and the solid black wire for the ground.

⇓  naylor99 tapped into the LDWS camera wiring for his Escort radar detector install using this harness and tapping into the same color wires as theemike; brown/black wire for switched +12VDC and the solid black wire for the ground.

LDWS camera

mirike recommends this 2 channel dashcam:

Anyone interested in a 2 channel system should have a look at the BlackSys CH-100B too. I’ve been looking for one and this is basically a slightly cheaper alternative to the BlackVue with very comparable feature set. It has a built in voltage monitor so you can hardwire it directly to fuses without the need for something like the PowerMagic Pro or other battery monitor like the BlackVue needs. It comes with the hardwire cables and regular power plug, and GPS mount so all you need is two fuse taps to install it.

For a top-end system, here is a review of a pricy Waylens dashcam available at Amazon that has the ability to tap into data from a Bluetooth device plugged into the OBDII port. The display isn’t only a video monitor as it serves many other functions such as OBD gauges ( I wonder how responsive the boost gauge is).

waylens

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4 thoughts on “Adding a Radar Detector, Dash-cam, powered mirror

  1. If you don’t mind a suction cup mount (with no wiring needed at all), Contour (contour.com) has versatile cams with batteries than run more than 3 hours (and can recharge from usb). My son gave me a basic version several years ago that I take on trips. New models have added a lot more features and still carry a fairly low price.

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  2. I agree John, if it isn’t going to be in use all of the time, that’s probably a “good enough” method. If I get a dash cam, that’s probably what I’ll do too. The article was primarily to be a resource for those running some “permanent” wiring. My USB shelf + trunk lights have been in use for several months now and haven’t needed a charge yet.

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    • rfiner stated in this comment:

      I used the low profile mini fuse taps and found it’s already very tightly fitted to the fusebox. I don’t think I need to modify the fuse taps to catch the two “fingers”.

      Like

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