New Abarth 124 GT Carbon-Fiber Hardtop & Exclusive OZ Wheels

Most of the Great Photos, courtesy of Peter T.
(click them to enlarge)

Logo_124GT

A few lucky Abarth shoppers in Europe have already been able to scoop up some pre-releases of the new Abarth 124GT, and although they don’t have the GT emblem (part # 52117178) affixed to the decklid spoiler, they do have all of the package goodies – the primary ones being:

  • the stunning new 35-pound carbon-fiber composite lined hardtop, which I predict will also become a highly sought after Mopar accessory item, despite the price, especially among those that race their cars
  • and OZ’s great looking black aluminum alloy wheels that were produced exclusively for this model.

⇓  Peter T. (from Italy) not only is the proud owner of one of these vehicles, but I see that it is the new hue of blue!  He has shared some close-up photos with me, so that others considering purchasing a 124GT or simply thinking of adding the removable hardtop to their 124 Spider (or perhaps a MX-5), will have an idea how they are attached to the vehicle.  Take note of the great field of vision due to the wraparound rear glass that almost parallels having the top down (80% better than with the closed soft top).

hardtop1

Wheels

Peter probably didn’t realize how much interest there would be in the OZ wheels, when he happened to include a couple of photos of those as well.   😉

Right off the bat, I hit him with a question that I deemed off-topic, but now I’ve decided that this article will be about both the hardtop AND the special wheels.

I wonder if the offset of these OZ wheels is their normal +37 mm, or the typical +45 mm of Mazda/Fiat wheels?

My guess is that since OZ’s normal retail 17″x7″, 4×100 mm “Ultraleggera” (Ultra-Light) wheels:

  • each weigh 7.257 kg (16 pounds), and are each rated for 1,254 pounds for a total of 5,016 pounds, which includes quite a variety of vehicles.
  • certifications affixed to wheels:    oz certifications
  • are available in 30, 37 and 44 mm offsets, but not 45 mm.

and the OZ wheels that are standard equipment on the Abarth 124GT  (which only weighs 2,500 pounds):

  • were developed by OZ exclusively for this car, so the offset may very well does meet Fiat’s spec of +45 mm (to clear the Brembo brakes), as verified in a photo Peter sent me on 5/30/2018 (shown below) and OZ’s coding “ET45”
  • based on the same photo, OZ’s part number is probably W01A60001 and it looks like the color is matt black (probably be the only color they will make this wheel in)
  • it appears that the Fiat part # is 52109667
  • are each 3 kg (6.6 pounds) lighter than the stock Abarth wheel per Fiat, reportedly resulting in a weight of 15.18 pounds (without the TPMS sensor)
  • which makes them 0.82 pounds lighter than their aforementioned retail equivalent, so they obviously have a lower weight rating ⇒ actually rated at 750 pounds max. (340 kg) for a total of 3,000 pounds (vs. 5,016 pounds)
  • same Ultraleggera alloy mix: Al Si 7 Mg
  • “7Jx17H2”: I was curious what the H2 meant ⇒ Double hump profile of the rim for fitting tubeless tires which ensure that the bead is seated on the two balconies, even when the inflation pressure is lower than the operating pressure, preventing bead seat dislodgement.
  • aside from the JWL VIA (Japanese Homologation Institute VIA), unsure as to what other certifications these wheels have received, since Peter’s photos don’t reveal all of the markings.

The Brembo brakes are substantial, which is why the +45 mm offset is required.

brembo

courtesy of Phillip Stephens (showing off his Ohlin coilovers)


Which brings up another question:

Can 124 Spider owners now order these wheels and/or the hardtop, as a Mopar accessory item?

⇓  

⇓  The weight savings resulting from choosing OZ’s certified alloy wheels vs. the standard wheels on the Abarth 124 intentionally counteract a good portion of the weight gain from the added hardtop, so that there would be no net-loss in performance claims, as a result in ordering the 124GT package.

oz wheels

oz wheels1

oz wheels4.png

Hardtop

⇓  This has got to be the first piece of 124 Spider glass, that doesn’t have the Mopar logo on it.  Instead it has an Abarth logo prominently displayed.  Is this a clue that the GT isn’t coming to North America?

hardtop2

The window defroster wire unplugs from the unused soft top glass and is connected to the hardtop glass via an extension harness (that should come with the hardtop; P/N shown on label photo), since the wrap-around glass connects further away ⇓ .

rear window defrost

 

hardtop cable on softtop

You can leave the defroster extension cable connected (loop the excess) when attached to the soft top in summer mode

hardtop cable

photos, courtesy of Santtu Ahonen

⇓ There are two brackets mounted in the soft-top well that the hardtop is attached to.

hardtop3

hardtop7

hardtop4

Peter later discovered that it is important that you not get these brackets (he identifies them as fixtures) mixed up, as they accommodate the body curve and the top will not fit as well if the brackets are not installed properly, and on the correct side of the vehicle.  With all the stampings visible on the those parts, I’m surprised LEFT and RIGHT aren’t also stamped on them.

Peter and Tobias have also discovered that the “beltline molding protectors” will get marred or crushed, if:

  • too much torque is applied to the hold-down bolts into the inside lateral brackets (especially when right and left are erroneously switched)
  • and/or if the brackets (Fiat part numbers: 6000614068 and 6000614069) aren’t fit perfectly 

and that the addition of some cushioning material might be advised, as well.

hardtop issue

[UPDATE 6/3/2019]
Peter adds :

Also for hardtop owners; under dry climatic circumstances, the hardtop may exhibit disturbing noises. This happens at one or both of the back fixtures. As you can see from the pictures below , the Torx screw actually does not touch the sides of the hole through the carbon tabs. Just by inserting a rubber washer between the Torx and the tab as shown, the rather gruesome grinding noise stops at once 👍.

hardtop grommet1

hardtop grommet



Looking at the fixtures from the inside of the car felt good when installing, but something kept nagging at me. So tonight, I switched right and left. Now I know it’s proper. Now when tightening the 13 bolt, the hardtop and body mate together over the length of the fixture.

The fixtures are not identical, but are each others mirror image. When looking from the side you can see lines that converge toward the back end (blue arrows), whereas the front side is the higher end (yellow arrows).

hardtop9

⇓  The painted plastic cover plates (body color vs. chromed metal in NA thru NC) that are normally installed on the non-GT models, to cover up the removed hardtop’s external tab wells that house a weld-nut designed to accommodate the hard top, along with plugs, washers, supports and 2 shorter Torx bolts, should all be found in a bag in the trunk, since they are all removed from the decklid plate area, in preparation for installing the hardtop.

Now us soft-top owners have a better idea as to what’s underneath those cover plates. 😉hardtop

hardtop5.png

hardtop12

I believe this is what is underneath (disassembled). The clip then holds the painted covers.

⇓  Here’s a close-up showing the header latch and liner.

hardtop13

⇓  and here is a good stock photo from abarth.com/124-gt  that I adjusted the brightness level on, to reveal the hardtop’s underside and mating to the header.  Very nicely done!

124gt interior


Hardtop Installation

⇓  Santtu Ahonen has written a great  How-to article  on installing Ricambi’s GT hardtop (purchased as a kit from a dealer) for those wishing to install one onto their own Abarth 124.  This grouping of photos are courtesy of  Santtu Ahonen, from the same article.

Note however, that he later observed:

I do not think there is any way for you to connect the cable after you have installed your hard top. This is where the owners manual goes horribly wrong!

…yet being unable to edit his installation instructions overview post, I’ve added the corrected version here (additions in red), in hopes that it helps someone from having to start over:

20181213_162409

20181213_171434

img_20191005_120620

20181201_163244

20181214_101537

[UPDATE 10/18/2019]
I’m not sure how Mopar can rectify the missing parts for those that purchased the hardtop installation kit from the initial production runs, but Peter had his hardtop replaced under warranty due to a rear mounting tab that failed, and happily reports that

  • two sets of the Torx40 bolt head covers (part # 735696829)
  • along with metal washer retaining clips that they snap into (part # 735696830)

now come with recent kits (and an “even-more-outstanding” carbon fiber finish of the hardtop itself, as well).

Here is his latest report:

In the upper left corner of the photo below, you can see that I now have two pairs of hex’s to fix the internal brackets. The new ones are much longer, which helps in centering the holes in which they have to go. It does take more time to fasten them all the way (but then it’s also more work for anyone attempting to steal the hardtop).

Two pairs of Torx40 covers [and the metal washer retaining clips that they snap into, which are not as sturdy].   If those upstanding clips are not bent outwards enough, the cap will come loose easily.  I invented for myself a small improvement, since I already lost one (luckily I have two and now one backup). Two pieces of double sided foam tape will take care of things not flying away haphazardly…

hardtop button3

Also new are the rubber washers; I already used those; maybe someone saw one of my pictures and added them to the kit since then (same for the double set of covers). The diameter and thickness are a bit off, and therefore I replaced them; what happens is that with the washers provided, when you fasten the torx screws, the rubber will bulge up, pushing inwards on the retaining clips, and as such the cap will not be able fully engage with the retaining clips.

What do you see more; the cable for the windscreen heating element plus it’s fuse (now double as well), the velcro strap which sits behind the back cabin wall to keep the cable in place.

Rubber chocks underneath the softtop which replace the Fiat ones when the hardtop is in place. They are about 0,5 cm higher (also double now).

And the foam blocks. Which need to be adjusted. The beveled side is missing and as such it does not insert in a stable way. It also hinders the movement of the window since it pushes the rear window moulding to the outside. 

I was spot on with the dimensions, but these blocks are much more dense. On those blocks I made before. you can see which side needs to be beveled (1x1cm 45°).  Also the blocks are not in one piece, but instead made from two slices of denser foam which are 3cm high like I did.  Because if you take off the hardtop and forget about these blocks, they’ll just fly away…

hardtop kit1

hardtop rubber gasket

♦♦♦♦♦

The soft top remains stowed away when the hardtop is in place, but will be available as needed whenever the hardtop is removed.  The glass in both tops have defrosting heating elements, so the wiring is simply connected to the top in use.

Peter pointed out that installing (and removing) the hardtop is a two-person job (one on each side) and involves first engaging the forward edge into the same windshield header wedges that secure the soft-top, prior to lowering the rear edge onto the four attachment points:

  • 2 internal brackets (shown above) that are each secured by an anodized 13 mm bolt (4 cm long, 6 mm diameter)
  • and 2 external tabs that appear* to be integral with the top (hasn’t been absolutely confirmed yet though), that are each secured by a Torx bolt

The mounting bolts are hand-tightened, the header latch is engaged, and then the bolts all need to be properly torqued tight.

Here is a link to the Abarth Owner’s Manual for the hardtop (thank you Ovo!  the 1st page reveals details for the hardtop storage rack that is shown below).

*    Per Brian Goodwin, if the 2 external tabs are fixed (not relocatable), then the hardtop can not be used on the ND, since “back deck mounting spots for the tops is where the cars are not the same”.

I have not heard yet as to whether the 124GT will be sold in North America (not sure if the hardtop needs to undergo crash testing in the U.S.?) – but I hope so, so that not only will prospective buyers have a choice, but that would lead to the wheels and hardtop becoming available as “parts”.  For those that want hardtop alternatives, DG Motorsports offers two aftermarket versions (fiberglass and carbon-fiber) with lexan rear windows.

[Peter indicated on 6/29/2018, that the Italian publication Quattroruote (July) shows that  the carbon-fibre hardtop is shown as a €1200 option ($1,400) when ordering a 124GT, which seems to indicate that dealers (at least in Europe) may be able to order and sell them separately.  When purchased as a stand-alone part, they do come with all of the hardware needed to mount to a non-GT 124 Spider, if you are lucky enough to find a source.]

Thank you Peter!


Hardtop Storage

For those that track their Abarths, the hardtop is a necessary item on race days, but for most others, the hardtop is considered a seasonal item, and during non-race days or the summertime, it will probably be suspended in the garage in some fashion, so that the convertible can readily be driven topless, as it should be.  Peter is dreaming up a pulley rig to do just that, and has volunteered to share his solution, once implemented*.  Any mention of storage suggestions in the Owner’s Manual, by chance?

Meanwhile, since two people are involved in handling the top anyways, I found tr6’s simple, yet effective solution for the 60-pound hardtop developed for the NC (almost twice as heavy!), on the Miata forum with instructions quite promising.  ⇓

Hardtop on wall

Wouldn’t this look great hanging over the fireplace?   😉

As a retired FCA automotive engineer, it is my opinion that the hardtop (rumored to have already been developed by Mazda and shelved once the RF, which adds 113 pounds back onto the MX-5, was determined to be the next iteration instead) wouldn’t have passed European crash testing if the external tabs were not capable of sustaining a substantial lateral force to keep the top in-place, but it would be great if either Mazda or Fiat/Abarth would offer confirmation that as long as the top remains static, hanging the hardtop vertically on pins, as illustrated, would be an acceptable/approved storage method.

Perhaps the tabs are actually alloy metal, disguised in “carbon fiber”?  All we need is a photo of these tops going down an assembly line hanging by those tabs.  😉

hardtop10

close-up of an external tab – Ronan Glon/Digital Trends

⇓  Santtu actually does suspend his hardtop via the external tabs…

img_20190530_211729

all of his photos can be found on his Finnish blog

*   [UPDATE 6/14/2018]
⇓  Peter has successfully modified a Thule 838 Kayak Carrier in conjunction with surf board slings, to hang his hardtop vertically (not by the tabs 😉 ), and he is pleased with the outcome.  He shared some photos, and his realization that it can be a “one-man” job after all…

I found out the Surfcor padded straps exactly match the size of the carbon top, without the metal parts touching anywhere. Which means that, if by yourself, after having loosened the tabs and brackets and having protected the bootlid [decklid] with some padding; you can place the straps around the roof on both sides. Having backed the car up near the rear wall [of my garage where the rig is attached], the Thule drawing strings in one hand and the front side of the roof in the other, you can do the whole operation by yourself!

hardtop hanger4

hardtop hanger3hardtop hanger2

For Summer 2019, Peter has decided to keep the hardtop in a silk bag, for even greater protection (and perhaps to help disguise it a little).

…it is completely covered in a silk bag, which actually is a sleeping sac for two. It hangs in a way that no rubber moulding is under pressure anywhere, so no permanent deformation of rubber parts.

hardtop hanger5

Ovo has provided some photos of a rolling hardtop storage rack (with cover) that is available, as well.  I think the details are included in the 1st page of the pdf file for the Hardtop Owners’s Manual, that is linked above.

hardtop rack1hardtop rack2hardtop rack3


Now, if you wish to finish it off with a new GT badge 😉

GT badge


[added 9/15/2019]

Peter noticed a question that Jay posted today regarding foam blocks and the installation of the brackets, and replied by email, since it is no easy task getting photos to display in the comments.  The following is his reply:

Here are some pictures of my brackets where the indication ‘lato guida’ means drivers side and ‘Passeggero’ is passenger side.

Another hardtop user soldered the washers on the bolts(13) to make things easier. He also fixes the brackets onto the hardtop before placing. This might make a big difference in not having to fiddle around blind trying to put the bolts in their place. I however am afraid that a wrong manoeuver might make one of the brackets scratch ones paint..

About the foam blocks; my car and hardtop came without. After trying to contact FCA and Adler directly, to no avail, I decided in doing some DIY.

Material:

3cm thick foam pad. Even better if one can find 6cm thick pads. I just glued one half on the other.

Long side: 6cm
Short side: 4cm
Width: 4,5cm
Indent: 2cm x 1cm
Beveled part is 1cm x 1cm cut diagonally (45°)

(click on any photo to enlarge)

👋Peter

 

62 thoughts on “New Abarth 124 GT Carbon-Fiber Hardtop & Exclusive OZ Wheels

  1. Gregory tried leaving a comment regarding the OZ wheels question, but experienced some difficulty. I’m therefore going to incorporate it into a dual-role comment myself.

    Tire Rack (the U.S. distributor) lists this size (17 x 7) Ultraleggera at 16.0 pounds, for the 37mm offset version.
    So I’m doubting the 12.97 pound figure–what’s your source? Here’s one that says they’re about 6.6 pounds lighter than the standard Abarth wheel, which would put them at 15.18 pounds per your spec’s page.

    This varies from the source I used; Fantasy Motorsports (the link was contained in the word ‘normal’ and is https://www.fantazymotorsports.com/oz-racing-ultraleggera-wheels-detail.htm?productid=22163866 ) which listed the weight as 18.92 pounds. Many reviews state that the 124GT wheels are 4 kg less than the standard Abarth wheels which works out to 8.81 pounds. There are other reviews that do state that the 124GT wheels are 3 kg (6.6 pounds) lighter though, that agree with your source. I actually doubt that OZ was able to remove 8.81 pounds of aluminum and yet have a wheel that will hold up to racing, yet I have read several claims that OZ was tasked with removing 35 pounds from the weight of 4 wheels for the Abarth to coincide with the weight gain from the added hardtop.

    (Peter’s literature also states that the OZ wheels are 3 kg lighter than the standard Abarth wheels, which equates to 6.6 pounds; or a total of 26.4 pounds.)

    Gregory goes on to state:

    Pretty close to that existing Ultraleggera. A different offset might account for that difference, though I’d guess increasing offset would increase weight.

    If these really are 12.97 that would suggest they’re getting the HLT [High Light Technology developed for Formula1 racing wheels] treatment, but that’s applied to the barrel so wouldn’t directly indicate something about the offset. So far the HLT process has been applied to the Ultraleggera only in its larger sizes.

    I think it would be great if OZ could make the Ultraleggera in a 45mm offset which clears the Brembo calipers; the Alleggerita in a 44mm offset does not. Their Leggenda at 42mm does, but is somewhat heavier. Maybe it just takes more material to do that large an offset in a shape that clears the Brembo calipers, like the standard Abarth wheel.

    Two questions for Peter T.:
    1. Do the letters “HLT” appear on the wheel?
    2. I think you’d have to get a look at the inner side of the wheel, but would you read the offset marking off the wheel? It would be the two-digit number next to the letters “ET”. A photo would be great. Here’s one reference, though not all OZ wheels follow this: https://www.ozracing.com/world-of-oz/technology/the-wheel/672-marking . On some other OZ wheels it’s all on the inside rim.

    I’d like to know, because if the factory is sending cars out with a 37mm offset wheel, I’d be more comfortable getting a replacement set with that offset. If it’s a new 45mm offset variant, I’d be convinced of the importance of sticking (close) to that offset for a replacement set, and try to pick up a set of these, especially if they’re HLT.

    Thanks, as always, for your work on the blog.

    Thank you so much for your wisdom and feedback Gregory! My 12.97 pounds is only the result of using a calculator, so in no way am I going to defend it. I’ll gladly adjust it to reflect the real number or at least the most realistic estimate. I’ll draw Peter’s attention to your questions as well. In the mean time, I added another photo of the wheel that Peter had sent me – see if the numbers 7Jx17H2 help you.

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  2. Thanks for posting this and the additional photo, though we still don’t quite see the whole wheel: the “HLT” mark would be on it like “7Jx17H2”, “OZ RACING”, “MADE IN ITALY”, &c. Like at about four- and ten-o’clock on this larger example:

    Peter, I do hope you respond, particularly with the offset spec, which I appreciate will take an effort to read/photograph.

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  3. Gregory, I just got a reply back from Peter with a great photo! So the wheels are rated at 340 kg (750 pounds) and are +45 mm offset. Yessss.

    He was unable to find HLT on the rim though. I’ll add the photo to the blog page.

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  4. Many thanks to Peter for the details and photo!

    Looking at another [retail] OZ wheel’s inside rim, it’s stamped, left-to-right:

    the eight central digits of the part number, minus the leading “W” and trailing letter and number(s)
    “ET” and the two-digit offset
    “MAX”[number]”KG”
    “VIA” and what I suppose is the certification number
    DD-MM-YY

    The FCA part number for the standard Abarth wheel is something like 68348048AA. The OZ part number for the 37mm-offset Ultraleggera is W01709200A53.

    Assuming there’s nothing to the left of the “ET” in Peter’s photo, I’m inclined to think 52109667 are the central digits of the OZ part number. If it were the FCA part number I’d think they would have gone ahead and put the letters (“AA”) on it.

    I’m a bit discouraged by how different the number is from the version differing apparently only in offset, though. For other OZ wheels that differ only in offset, the part numbers are very similar, differing in only the last few digits before the trailing letter and number(s). That might suggest the exclusivity you mention, rather than also being available from OZ.

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  5. For now, I’m going to revise my OZ wheel weight based on the majority of statements I’ve read of them weighing 3 kg (6.6 pounds) less than the stock Abarth wheels even though some reviews, like Top Gear mention 4 kg (or around 4 kg).

    Made of carbonfibre, the roof weighs 16kg. So it’ll be a bit cumbersome to get on and off, and with a variety of screws to undo, a minor rigmarole as well. The weight gain is counteracted by another of the 124 GT’s changes: it gets new lightweight 17in alloy wheels, which save around 4kg a corner.

    I also think that Tire Rack’s weight of 16 # (7.257 kg) for the retail OZ Ultraleggera is more accurate than my previous source (thanks Gregory) and am changing that as well.

    Gregory, I don’t think these wheels “differ only in offset”, because the weight rating is 40% less as well (3,000 pounds), basically limiting the vehicles to which they can be installed on, to the MX-5 and the 124 Spider.

    P.S. It sounds like Top Gear reviewer Stephen Dobie’s first analysis of hardtop removal was a duplicate of Peter’s experience – “with a variety of screws to undo”, when you really only need to remove 2 bolts (plus loosen 2 others), or else you’re just creating a lot of extra work for yourself. It turns out you don’t touch any windshield header bolts, as the hardtop engages similar to the soft top.

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  6. Hi Dan and Greg, I’m also quite sure about the 3kg weight saving instead of the mentioned 4. I’m going to try and see if I can leave the inside brackets (thanks Dan, it’s the better wording) on while removing the roof. Before that I will loosen them almost all the way and then I will connect left and right through an elastic cord or something to evade that they still snag on something. I do not intend to use the tabs, but instead make a kind of harness/sling using sailboat cords(and knots ☺️) to lift and suspend the hard top.

    [I sent Dan another photo of the wheel interior rim that shows another number next to the ET numbers to be posted in place of the initial photo]

    Liked by 1 person

  7. About ‘tabs made out of alloy metal ,disguised as carbon fibre’; something that might corroborate your theory: when tightening down the rear torx screws at a certain point there is an audible ‘click’. It’s the tab that bends over a certain passive point. It goes from one position to another. Before fixing the roof, pushing on the carbon fibre tab does not provoke any sound or visible movement. After tightening the torxes however and after the ‘click’ the tab moves a bit and makes friction noises. Unfastening the internal bolts does not make any difference. Untightening both the internal bolts and the four torxes that hold the metal plates fixed on the upper side of the wind screen, does not make any difference. I thought Carbon fibre was really rigid, but now the theory of alloy tabs, dawns on me!

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  8. Peter reported that the Italian publication Quattroruote (July) reported that the Abarth 124GT carbon-fibre hardtop will be available as an option, (at least in Europe) for €1200, which equates to $1,400.

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  9. I don’t personally know, however in conjunction with Gregory’s comment (1st comment):

    I think it would be great if OZ could make the Ultraleggera in a 45mm offset which clears the Brembo calipers; the Alleggerita in a 44mm offset does not. Their Leggenda at 42mm does, but is somewhat heavier. Maybe it just takes more material to do that large an offset in a shape that clears the Brembo calipers, like the standard Abarth wheel.

    implying that the 44mm does not, hence the special GT edition was developed, I’d say NO.

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  10. I was writing that I thought it would be great if OZ did what we subsequently determined they did indeed do. I’m just sorry they’re not available without buying a whole new car, or (potentially, I haven’t checked availability) through an Abarth dealer as an accessory.

    I’m unaware of a 17×7 Ultraleggera in a +44 offset, only +37. Where did you find it?

    The information about the Alleggerita 17×7 +44 not clearing the Brembo calipers comes from Tire Rack’s hardware support team research. The Leggenda 17×7 +42 does clear with what feels like at least as much room for the Brembo calipers as the stock Abarth wheels. So I don’t think caliper clearance is only a function of offset, but also of spoke and hub design. I think it’s possible a 17×7 Ultraleggera +44 — if it exists — could clear the Brembo calipers and encourage you to test it and report back here.

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  11. Just talked to my dealer regarding the Hardtop since I want to get one for my 2017 Abarth.

    In Germany the Hardtop is 3.500€ (don’t know if this with or without mountings) and from a mechanical viewpoint retrofitting is no problem at all.
    However there is a legal issue. The Hardtop is NOT homologated for MY2016, 2017 Spiders. This is a problem here since you need TÜV approval to mount such things.
    Dealer sent me the type permit IDs, so next thing I’m gonna do is ask a TÜV inspector if there is way to add it to the vehicle documents.

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  12. Interesting! First of all, there are no 2016 MY Spiders, and in Peter’s case, I’m pretty sure his top was added to a 2017 MY vehicle, making it a pre-production GT (without the badge). I can’t imagine why your fitting would be any different legally. I’m also pretty sure all the mounting brackets and other hardware Peter mentioned, are going to come with. Peter should have a pretty good idea as to whether the two brackets will install directly to a ST Spider (I don’t know if a mating piece is installed permanently to the vehicle, but I suspect not).

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  13. It‘s a bit of an EU and very much a German issue.
    Currently there are two CoCs (short for Certificate of Conformity, EU vehicle type-approval document)

    There are:
    – e11*2007/46*3320*XX (XX represents variants, i.e. my Abarth is 03)
    – e3*2007/46*0474*XX

    The CoC is quite an important document since you can‘t license a car without it.
    My Abarth is type approved via the first document, while GTs seem to be approved via the second document.

    Here in Germany, every part you put onto your car needs an approval of some sort (e-Number, ABE, Certificate+inspection…) otherwise you are not allowed to put your vehicle onto public roads.

    Now, the Hardtop is approved via the Spiders CoC, but only for the e3* vehicles.

    My guess is that Fiat had to apply for a new CoC because of …reasons and didn‘t care to also get type approval of the top for the „old“ Spiders. Maybe because they thought that the profits wouldn‘t justify the expenses. But that is just me guessing.

    Anyway, as i‘m told, there is no mechanical difference between the two „versions“ regarding the Hartop installation.

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  14. Tobias,
    Peter left word with me that his 124 is indeed an E3 certification. So at least in Germany, if you want the hardtop, it might be a much easier process ordering the GT package. He’s from Italy, so I don’t know what he has to go through, if he adds other options on.

    Good luck with your TÜV approval.

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  15. Picked my hardtop up from the dealer today.
    Looks gorgeous https://twitter.com/puni_2k/status/1049678446874566658?s=21

    According to my invoice part# is 52101279, price is 2800€ + VAT .
    One thing to note is that the cover plugs and washers for the rear tabs were not included. Dealer is clarifiying if they simply forgot to ship them or have to order these separatly.

    As for my TÜV issues, gonna just ignore it. Top gets demounted before vehicle inspection 😉

    Like

    • Tobias, you might be the first to order as a part. I’m thinking that you won’t get cover plugs and washers with yours, because they are already installed on the vehicle, whereas Peter bought his vehicle with the top installed. You should get all of the needed mounting hardware though.

      Like

      • Yeah you’re right. The kit shipped with the long screws and the two metal fixtures that you put behind the seats (manual calls them blocks).
        Odd that they didn’t include the plug covers and washers. I would have expected that it’d be all or nothing.

        The original covers are (accordig to the manual) held in place by the plastic fixture (bolted down with the short screws) and a piece of velcro. So these are already there on every Spider.

        If you want i can provide scans of the manual.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Yes, I’m curious to read that, Tobias.

        Regarding the covers, plugs and washers in a ziplock bag, those aren’t parts that come with any hardtops, but rather parts that are removed from the vehicle in preparation for installing the hardtop – just as you will do, when installing.

        I’ll reword the article, in case that lead to your confusion.

        Like

      • Ah, I think we’re just talking about a different set of plugs and washers. You’re right, the “ziplock bag parts” are already mounted on the non GT cars. What’s missing from my retrofit kit are the black round bolt covers you put on the external tabs and some kind of castellated washer that goes below it.

        Sorry if i confused you.

        Like

  16. Bolt and screw head cover caps are quite easy to find, like these Black Hinged Pan-Head Screw Covers at Home Depot, but ideally, FCA should provide them with the rest of the hardware,

    … especially since they are shown ⇓ in the instructions.

    Like

  17. Peter located the part number for the 124 GT decklid emblem (52117178), and I added it to the article, primarily for those with the pre-release edition.

    Like

  18. Small PSA regarding the hardtop:
    Removed mine last Friday and noticed that it left some unsightly marks on the “Rear Beltline Molding Protectors” (that’s what the Mazda manual calls them). That’s the small plastic on top of the rear quarterpanel where it joins the door.
    The one on the driver-side was cracked while the one on the passenger side had a ~2,5 cm scratch.

    Luckily I had the hardtop mounted by the dealer so they agreed to replace them. They couldn’t find the part# in the schematics so they have to contact FCA for it.
    My assumption is that the guy mounting it did tighten the brackets too much. Couldn’t undo them without the help of a socket wrench.

    Next time I’ll put some cushioning material there.

    Like

    • Hi Tobias, one of mine was scratched too and they replaced it (they however did not place it in the original position, but more forwards…).

      With your roof, did you get the l-shaped foam blocks to cover the hole inside the B-pillar before you put the hardtop in place? Did you check if they put the right bracket on the right side? Because if you don’t it is indeed possible to tighten the roof too much….

      Like

      • Hi Peter,

        yes they inserted the foam blocks, but they are no longer L shaped but rather squished.
        As for the brackets: Need to check this. I put a label on each indicating on which side they were mounted. Thanks for the tip.

        Like

      • Hi again Tobias. Looked at mine. The one they replaced in an ‘off’ position is cracked too. In two places. When I take the roof of, I’ll inspect it better. From the diagrams I found, it looks like this piece is fixed with a screw. I think they took mine of by force and then placed it back with volcanic rubber(still soft after a year). Do you have the part numbers for the right and left one?

        Like

      • Not sure if it really is fixed with a screw but rather with a plastic clip, but haven’t removed it yet so can’t tell.

        When I was at the dealer yesterday they couldn’t tell me any part number. They showed me the program they use to determine which part to order. You choose a certain area of the car and it shows you a schematic with the rough outline of the part and its rough position.
        Problem is that you first have to find the correct schematic (since sometimes there are several for a certain area) and then have to guess if the blob on the screen is the actual part you are looking for.
        Also you can’t really search by name since these apparently got translated from Japanese into English, into Italian and then into German. Otherwise some of the names there don’t make any sense.
        They promised that they will call FCA and ask them about the correct number but also told me it could take a few days.

        Like

      • Hi Tobias.

        I found them. The Mazda schematic is the same as the 124 one and as such found them through Eper(at the dealership). The part numbers are 6000614068 and 6000614069. Alas, when I google them I do not find them. I cannot tell you which is right and which left. Mazda part numbers for the same pieces are N243-R1-742B (left) and N243-R1-741B (right).

        Something else: there is going to be a 124 Spider ‘raduno’ on the 18th/19th of May in and around Mugello Tuscany(organized by Francesco Ulivieri di 124 Spider Italia, fb)..😉

        Like

      • Wow, that’s a major job!! Perhaps the hardtop installation instructions need to be written better. 😉 I added the part numbers, as well as a photo of the crush issue to the article, all provided by Peter.

        Like

      • Hi Peter,
        thanks for going through the trouble of finding the part#. *two thumbs up*

        Just had a look at the picture of your protector. *Wow* that makes mine almost look like brand-new 0o
        Yours really is mounted way too forward. Mine stops right at the end of the quarterpanel. I’d guess that the protectors are asymmetric and they mounted one intended for the other side?

        Maybe it is a good idea if I glue my cracked protector so that I can use the already scratched protectors with the hardtop and the new ones with the softtop.
        Also have to remember buying some spares once Mazda stops producing NDs 😉

        On a different note: Personally I wouldn’t try the hang the hardtop from the tabs. While removing it I noticed that the area below the window has quite a bit of flex. The tabs seem to have a metal inlay of some sort but the area where they join the rest of the top is just plain carbon fiber. Even if the carbon manages to handle the load I would be too afraid of putting too much stress on the window or its sealant.
        I think Peters idea of using the Thule hangers is the best solution. Mine currently lies flat in an unused storage room, but this is unfortunately only temporary.

        Like

  19. Peter has just relayed some more hardtop stuff, courtesy of Ovo, which I’ve added to the article:
    * Hardtop Owners Manual pdf
    * Photos of a Storage Rack made for the hardtop

    Like

  20. Hi there,

    summer’s leaving and I had a look at my hardtop again. I bought it in September 2018 for my Abarth 124. Dealer mounted it and I removed it again in Feb 2019. When I revisited this post and went through all the new content and details, I noticed that those foam blocks were not included in my delivery. I’m not clear about their real purpose, do they actually do something useful? I don’t have any issues with my “Bolding Protectors”.

    Then, I noticed it’s a hell of a job to attach those metal brackets. When the dealer installed them in the first place, they had them attached loosely when they attached the hardtop; now looking at the openings in hardtop for the “fingers” of the bracket plus the rubber rim where the lower part goes, I think it is not possible that way and I’m almost certain they didn’t attach the hardtop correctly. Anyway, are there any tricks to find the right lateral position for the fixtures, as I cannot get the screws to find the holes given the little space to work on?

    Thanks,

    Jay

    Like

    • Jay,

      Peter has kindly responded via email with answers that you hopefully find useful. I have added his reply (along with all of his photos) in a new section at the end of my article. Grazie Peter!

      Liked by 1 person

  21. Excellent, thank you Peter and Dan!

    What I noticed when pre-mounting the brackets is that either they don’t properly wrap around the rubber on the lower side, or alternatively the upper part isn’t correctly fitted to the hardtop. So I think if one can accept a bit of compromise, pre-mounting is a valid option.

    Cheers,

    Jay

    Like

  22. Just to conclude, when I mounted the hardtop today I used the following tactics: I pre-installed the bracket on the passenger side since I found that one much harder to deal with once the hardtop is on the chassis. I think someone reported a similar experience. Then I began by attaching the hardtop to the windscreen. With a second person securing the top, the back was just flexible enough to push the bracket on the passenger side under the rubber. On the driver’s side, I used a small mirror to align the bracket to the whole as someone suggested. All in all, it took me 45 minutes to install the hardtop with a second person helping for 5 minutes. I’m very happy with the result.

    Thanks again for your help,

    Jay

    Liked by 1 person

  23. For those that are following this comprehensive hardtop article, Peter has sent me some more updates, since he was fortunate enough to have his hardtop replaced under warranty, due to a failed rear mounting tab.

    Like

  24. Could someone produce a YouTube video showing how to fit the top and comment on some of the “dos” and “donts” for fitting the top? This article is VERY helpful but it would be even more helpful to watch a video that zoomed in on each area.

    Like

  25. For the fitting of the hardtop you do not need a video, it,s that easy. On the other hand you need two persons so there needs to be a third person present to make a video. However for the most cumbersome part, the fixing of the internal lateral brackets, there it would come in handy. If only there would be enough space to do so. As it is, unfortunately fixation of the hexagonal 13 mm bolts needs to be done on touch and as such ‘in the dark’.

    Like

  26. Hello there, I wish to resume this 3d because I encountered an unexpected problem when I upgraded my Lusso with the Brembo 2 pistons calipers of the Abarth version. I use for daily driving the abarth OEM wheels and left the Lusso OEM wheel aside fitted with track tires to be used when tracks will open again (hopefully soon) . In these lockdown days I wanted to check how was the look of my car with the new tires and …surprise ( at least for me) , the Lusso silver wheels couldn t be be installed since they interfere with the caliper body of the Brembo brakes.

    Now, since OZ ultraleggera is making wheels for the 124GT I wonder if what is available as aftermarket , is ok with my car. There s a lot of confusion. By reading this blog , the Ultraleggera 17x7j ET45 is used on the GT; but the 124 is also using a different brembo calipers ( 4 pistons vs 2 pistons of the abarth system) if I am not wrong, therefore dimension might differ from the Abarth Brembo I got. On the other hand ET+45 means very little since the Lusso OEM silver wheels do not fit in spite of being ET 45. there s a guy selling 4 Ultraleggera having exactly the size claimed by the GT : 17x7j ET45. He fitted that on a Fiat PUNTO! .

    I am inclined to buy them but after contacting a local shop selling OZ , they said that the OZ ultraleggera ET +37 appears to be the wheels for my car and brakes…I ma very confused Probably I am asking something very difficult to be confirmed but before buying a third set of wheels to happily go on a track, I prefer to check around. thanx for anyone having better info I get

    Like

    • The guy selling the OZ ultraleggera with ET45 must have a GT himself. If he doesn’t I doubt it’s the GT rim. Made by OZ specifically for the GT and only obtainable through the FCA/Mopar parts detailers. Otherwise this rim exists only in ET37, which makes it sit about 1 cm more to the outside.

      Like

      • Thank you Peter . No he doesn’t t have a GT . Understood . Now , question : is the OZ ET37 sitting this 1 cm outside fitting the Brembo or still it does not ? According to your experience , do you see a problem in the set up ? Thanx

        Like

      • Yes they do. Many people with the Abarth bought them aftermarket and as such theough an oz salespoint. ET37 is the norm, nonproblems with the Brembo’s.

        Like

      • Hi Peter,
        as far as I know ET37 isn’t the only version that the Ultraleggera is available in.
        I found listings and certification for other offsets as well.

        The most interesting might be the +44 variant.
        Here is a link to a certificate for it relevant for the German TÜV.

        Click to access FIAT_HYUNDAI_KIA_MAZDA_SUZUKI_TOYOTA_00317634.pdf

        It explicitly allows mounting the wheel on Fiats and Abarths as long as you DON’T have the 4 piston Brembos mounted on the front axle 😦
        Don’t know why this is since (if i’m not mistaken) ET44 should give you more space than ET45.

        Like

      • Hi Tobias,

        The ET44 does not fit the the Brembo brake calipers.

        There’s also lower ET yes, but more than 1 cm might create stress in suspension struts and arms, bushings etc.

        Like

      • Tobias question was raised by me to understand what OZ fit with the brembo calipers . 44 do not . They are ok for OEM calipers though.

        Like

      • Hi Peter,
        you have any information on why ET44 doesn’t fit but 45 does?

        I always thought that if the offset is lower then the wheel will stick out further. So ET44 should give you 1mm more clearance?
        Or is it that the shape of the 44 is slightly different so that it will collide with the caliper nonetheless? Wondering is spacers would help then…

        Like

      • The Shape of the Ultrallegera made by OZ for the GT in ET45 has a different shape on the inside in respect to the ET44 yes.

        Like

      • As I have pointed out , the Lusso OEM ET45 do not fit!!! It is not a question of 1-2mm but the shape of the wheel. In fact the abarth wheels fit and have a clearance of 5mm. Today I’ll try to see how much is the clearance needed to clear the lusso . If it is 5mm or less ( I doubt about that), I’ll go with a 5mm spacer. If not the OZ ultra et 37 are the way to go

        Like

  27. Just to add a maybe useful info, the Lusso wheels will fit the Brembo calipers.with at least 10mm spacers. Don t think they exist in this thickness, next avalable are 15mm which are way too much . Now , looking forward for OZ ultraleggera ET37.

    Like

      • Agree. I will not . I was tempted if a 5 mm would have been ok . Since I d need 15 , that a would be a no go for the same reason I believe you advice not to . I ll sell my Lusso wheels and get a OZ i UK Ltr al when I find them .

        Like

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